Grow Strawberries

My home grown everbearing strawberries almost ready to pick. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

My home grown everbearing strawberries almost ready to pick. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Grow Strawberries

Summer is officially here when I start seeing locally-grown strawberries, usually several weeks before the official start of summer. In USDA Hardiness zone 5B, where I live, strawberry season begins in June. Or maybe I should say strawberry shortcake season. It continues for several weeks, or months, depending on the strawberry variety.

My family goes back several generations as Hungarian strawberry farmers. That may explain why most of us siblings love strawberries just as they are. Commercially-grown, strawberries usually end up on the top 10 list of plants raised with harmful chemicals so growing them at home is an excellent option.

Types of Strawberries

There are a number of strawberry varieties. Here are the two most popular types of strawberries:

  • June-bearing strawberries provide strawberries for 5-6 weeks starting in June.

  • Ever-bearing strawberries bloom 3-6 months starting in June.

For example, the ever popular Quinault and Ozark strawberries are ever-bearing strawberries.

How to Plant Strawberries

Strawberries are heavy feeders, which means they take a lot of resources out of the soil. To get ready for my first strawberry plantings, I added both compost and manure to ensure the soil microbes were reinforced.

For those flower beds where I used strawberries as border plants, they also were given extra mulch and compost.

Strawberry plants can easily be used on flower borders. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Strawberry plants can easily be used on flower borders. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Last year, I planted a good 60 or so new ever-bearing strawberry plants as flower bed borders. This way I can easily pick strawberries as I walk by.

Strawberry plants in their first year can appear small. It normally takes a year for plant roots to get established.

You should also remove the flowers in the first year. You want to concentrate the plant’s energy in getting roots established.

Here’s another border where I included strawberries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Here’s another border where I included strawberries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

I also added June-bearing plants in a couple of flower beds. Those are honestly for the visiting turtles that somehow know when the berries are ripe.

Now the more traditional way to grow strawberries is to have separate planting beds. To grow strawberries in beds, they need to be rotated 3-4 years to give soil time to recover.

Separate strawberry beds are the traditional way to raise berries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Separate strawberry beds are the traditional way to raise berries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

After planting, add straw under the leaves. You don’t want the berries touching soil or they will rot.

Charlotte

Dead Head New Strawberries

Strawberry flowers getting cut short of fruiting. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Strawberry flowers getting cut short of fruiting. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Dead Head New Strawberries

It usually takes one little self-talk, maybe two, before I can make myself do this but I know it’s for the best.

I should also confess I use strawberry plants a lot; as border plants as well as in their own beds. I like the idea of walking down a path, leaning over and grabbing a couple of strawberries.

Planting new strawberry plants, though, requires a little patience. The plants will spend their first year getting their roots established. If they are allowed to flower and then fruit, the strawberry fruits will tend to be small because of the energy it takes to fruit.

If you look at brand new and first year strawberry plants, the flowers tend to be small.

First year strawberry plants tend to produce small flowers. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

First year strawberry plants tend to produce small flowers. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Which means the fruit, the actual strawberry, will also be small.

Ergo the need for a little self pep talk. You need to snip off those tiny flowers, Charlotte. Yes, I know. You will have larger strawberries next year if you do. Yes, I know but these look so good, what can it hurt to leave a few and get more strawberries this year…..and so it goes.

But when I spot strawberry plants from earlier year plantings, the argument is won. Those older strawberry plants have large flowers, promising big fruit.

Second year strawberry plants have larger flowers and fruit. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Second year strawberry plants have larger flowers and fruit. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Strawberries are also heavy feeders, meaning they take a lot of energy out of the soil. Planted in beds, it is recommended to move the plants every 3 years and give the soil time to recover.

If you snip off the flowers, the plants won’t drain all of the soil resources and will produce larger fruits. They can also stay in an area longer especially if you add compost yearly.

Charlotte