Golden Dewdrop Trees

I look forward to seeing these flowers late summer in USDA Hardiness zone 5. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Golden Dewdrop Trees

It’s that time of year for my potted Golden Dewdrop trees to bloom. Late summer early fall is a tough time for pollinators to find food. These lovely blooms are a welcome food source for native bumblebees.

However, it has crossed my mind these are getting rather large compared to their size when I first bought them. I will trim these back before moving them inside for winter.

golden dewdrop trees gettng bigger growing in pots. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I bought my first Golden Dewdrop potted bushes a good decade ago. They were small but they had these lovely bluish purple flowers that bloomed late summer. Since those are hard colors to find in most gardens, I kept those little shrubs growing inside through winter and then back outside in deck shade.

Several years ago they were finally big enough to trim into the tree shape I wanted. I have to confess it took me a couple of days to think through how I was going to do this. I didn’t want to take too much off or somehow cut the wrong branches.

After considering the shape, I trimmed these tropical plants into their tree shape and gave them a place of honor.

Golden Dewdrop trimmed trees blooming at my garage door. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

These USDA Hardiness zone 9-11 plants do not like our hot Missouri USDA zone 5 summers. I keep them in shade through summer, including in their new spot by my garage door but they may like a little more sun.

In addition to their tiny flowers, Golden Dewdrop trees also have golden yellow berries, which add a very interesting texture to the plants.

Golden Dewdrop shrubs also have pretty yellow berries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The Golden Dewdrop trees are excellent for garden decor. They offer a more bluish color to the garden, often a missing color.

Once inside, these purplish flowering plants make it quite well through winter. I trim them back before bringing them inside and make sure their roots get watered in dry winter house conditions.

After the danger of frost is over around May, outside they go to get ready for another blooming season. Be patient because in mid-Missouri these usually don’t put on a show until mid to late summer.

These are just so pretty, they are well worth the extra care to keep them going!

Charlotte

Do You Have Native Seeds?

missouri wildflowers nursery is looking for missouri native seeds. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Do You Have Native Seeds?

Missouri Wildflowers Nursery closer to Jefferson City than where I live in Rolla is one of my all-time favorite native plant sources. Not only do they have an excellent free catalog but their staff is very knowledgeable and helpful. And don’t forget to drive state highway 54 mid-spring to see the purple coneflowers they’ve planted over the last few decades.

That’s not why we’re here, though. This company is looking for Missouri native seeds; it’s how they get stock for their native plant seedlings.

I’m a big fan of Missouri wildflowers nursery; they have a great free catalog you can download. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Their list of seeds they want is interesting. They have a list of what they would like to get but haven’t sold as well as seeds they want to restock.

use this list to determine if you have missouri native seeds to share. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

In case you missed it, they are flexible on payment either in cash or plants. Contact them directly.

Charlotte

Storm Water Ponds 2.0

storm water runs downhill and collects in these ponds before hitting my house. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Storm Water Ponds 2.0

Earlier this spring, I decided to remake my two storm water detention ponds at the front of my house.

These holes were made in 1995 when I removed my slolem-of a garage entrance concrete. Realizing storm water will run downhill into my garage, I set up storm water ponds to reduce the water runoff and capture rain.

The first ponds were made with black plastic. Although they lasted for a number of years, I had to replace them when something punctured them.

the old storm water ponds had a liner that had to be replaced. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Here’s a better view of the same space cleared of some of the overgrowth and ready to install pond forms.

pre-formed plastic liners will last longer and still collect rain water. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Pond forms are easy to work with as long as you level them and add support underneath. It also helps if you don’t get rain filing up the forms before you’re done. The resident frog population is well-established and didn’t go far during the construction.

rocks line the pond form side so water levels can fluctuate without showing the pond form. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I didn’t buy anything new for this project besides the pond forms, sand, glue to hold in critical rocks and solar-powered metal lights. I had the rocks and pumps. Each of the three ponds have a pump to keep the water oxygenated.

Push the flat rocks farther over the pond form lip so they aren’t as visible. (charlotte Ekker wiggins photo)

In terms of cost estimate, the pond forms, sand, sealer and lights were around $1,000. If you have to buy rocks and pay labor that will depend on your local pricing.

I’ve made the previous storm water ponds and had my handyman and his crew develop this one. I’m glad I did because he knows me and added safe walking spaces in between the ponds I now use every day.

I’m still mulling over additional landscaping. I need some clear spaces to safely get around. Some plants were growing in those areas before this work was done so I’m waiting to see if they will return on their own.

In terms of mosquitos, the water is getting churned by pumps and resident goldfish. I also have a resident population of dragonflies that take out mosquitos and water plants that help keep the collected rain water clear.

Didn’t take my bees long to find the water source. They like to hang out on several moss-covered stones. I also added water lettuce so they have safe places to land as they gather water.

I could use the larger pond for water therapy but may have to explain that to resident frogs. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

This is the first spot I visit in the morning to feed the resident goldfish and count frogs as they dive in. It’s a small water feature that was designed to be practical but has added a lot of joy to my garden. If you have a chance to add one, I highly recommend it!

Charlotte

Monkey Grass

Monkey grass is an excellent border plant providing pollinators food mid-summer. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Monkey Grass

Liriope, also known as Lilyturf or Monkey Grass, is a popular ornamental plant often used in gardens for its attractive foliage and low maintenance requirements. I love Liriope to mark my paths and borders, and to help with soil erosion, a constant battle gardening on a hillside.

Here are some advantages and disadvantages of using Liriope in your garden:

Advantages:

1. Low Maintenance: Liriope is relatively low-maintenance. It requires minimal care once established, making it a great choice for busy gardeners or those new to gardening.

2. Ornamental Value: Liriope's grass-like leaves come in various shades of green and sometimes variegated patterns, adding visual interest to your garden. Some varieties also produce small spikes of lavender or white flowers, adding a touch of color.

3. Versatility: Liriope is versatile in terms of its uses. It can be used as ground cover, edging, or in mass plantings. It's also suitable for both sunny and partially shaded areas.

4. Erosion Control: Due to its spreading nature and dense root system, Liriope can help control soil erosion on slopes and banks.

5. Drought Tolerance: Once established, Liriope is generally drought-tolerant and can survive periods of dry weather without much trouble.

6. Deer Resistance: Many varieties of Liriope are relatively resistant to deer browsing, making it a good choice in areas with deer populations.

7. Pollinator Food: Liriope blooms mid-summer where I live and provides food for bees and other pollinators when not much else does.

Disadvantages:

1. Invasiveness: Liriope can sometimes become invasive in prime growing conditions. It spreads through underground rhizomes, and in some cases, it can outcompete other plants and become difficult to control.

2. Slow Establishment: Liriope can take a while to establish and fill in, especially when planted from small divisions.

3. Limited Flowering Period: While some Liriope varieties produce small spikes of flowers, the flowering period is relatively short, and the flowers may not be as showy as those of other plants.

4. Overcrowding: If not properly managed, Liriope can sometimes become overcrowded, leading to a less attractive appearance and reduced growth.

5. Spread into Unwanted Areas: The rhizomes of Liriope can spread beyond where you initially planted them. This can sometimes lead to the plant appearing in areas where you didn't intend it to grow.

6. Winter Appearance: In colder climates, Liriope's foliage can become brown and wilted during the winter months.

   Some recommend cutting Liriope back in spring but I don’t find that necessary. It can look a little bedraggled coming out of winter but the new growth soon turns green and lush again.

Charlotte

Rose of Sharon

my rose of sharon are trimmed into tree shapes and frame house and path corners. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon is a type of hibiscus (hibiscus syriacus) It is a member of the mallow family, Malvaceae. Other popular hibiscus varieties include Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos), and swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus laevis).

Rose of Sharon is a deciduous shrub that can grow up to 8 feet tall. It has large, showy flowers that come in a variety of colors, including white, pink, red, blue, and purple. The blue and purple ones can be hard to distinguish. Some pink ones also start pink and fade to purple.

The flowers bloom from summer to fall. Rose of Sharon is a relatively easy plant to care for and is hardy in USDA zones 5-9.

rose of sharon flowers are 6-8 inches wide and bumblebee favorites. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

How to Plant Rose of Sharon

Here are some tips for growing rose of Sharon:

• Plant in full sun or partial shade in well-drained soil.

• Water regularly, especially during hot, dry weather.

• Fertilize every few months with a balanced fertilizer.

• Prune in late winter or early spring to shape the plant and remove dead or damaged branches.

Rose of Sharon is a beautiful and versatile plant that can be used in a variety of landscape settings. It can be planted as a stand-alone shrub, in a shrub border, or as a hedge.

Rose of Sharon is also a popular choice for cut flowers and is a pollinator favorite.

Charlotte

Planting Onions

my first batch of homegrown onions, ready for the crisper. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Planting Onions

I start the growing season in my USDA Hardiness Zone 6A by planting onions. It helps that I use a lot of onions in my home cooking from soups to salads.

Onions are also excellent companions to roses, keeping bugs off those edible flowers.

I look for bags of onion sets late January and early February. You can find them in home and garden centers and even grocery stores. Some farm centers offer onion sets by weight.

I focus on growing my favorites, red onions, and then yellow onions. Two pots of each so that I can enjoy the onion greens fresh; then dig up bulbs later in the season.

How to Plant Onion Sets

Onion sets are easy to plant. I wait for a good rain, then make holes in a circle around the pot. I don’t plant onions in the same pot two years in a row so I rotate my pot garden as well.

onion sets are easy to plant. make a hole and place one set up to the top. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Once I have the holes made, I plop in an onion set in each, then make sure they are covered with soil.

It takes a couple of weeks for the first onion greens to show up; and maybe three months for the greenery to die back, which is a sign its time to dig up the onion bulbs.

recycled clam shells work to store onions and onion sets. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

How to Store Onions

You can recycle the bags that held the original onion sets. If you’re like me, though, you will plant a few onion sets every couple of weeks so you’ll need those mesh bags for the onion sets.

I keep mine in recycled clear clam shells with the cardboard tag. When I run out of onion sets to plant, I then use the mesh bag for storing the onion bulbs in the crisper.

In the meantime, the recycled clam shells also work well for holding the finished onion bulbs in your refrigerator.

Onions are easy to grow and can add flavor to most dishes so give them a try!

Charlotte

Watering Options

This is the view of the space under my deck when it was under construction where I connected three water totes to the gutter system to collect rain water. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Water Options

We just headed into the severe drought category where I live. This is the third year of record hot temperatures, killing off even native Eastern Redbuds and Flowering Dogwood native trees growing on my hillside for decades.

small waterfall recycles rain water and keeps it hydrated for pollinator and bird access. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Besides storm water ponds, I use plastic bottles in pots to water roots and include small waterfalls to keep rain water hydrated.

Of all of the watering options, the water totes collecting rain water through the house gutter system is the most practical and efficient.

House Gutter Watering Totes

Several decades ago, I connected my house gutters to pipes that collect rain water into my back pond. These gutters run the rain water first into smaller totes, then the overflow collects in my ponds.

The water totes sit under my deck, all three connected so they evenly collect rain water and evenly empty the totes as the collected water is used. My handyman laughed when I said how could I possibly use this much saved rain water and he was right, the water comes in handy during Missouri’s now extended summer dearth.

The totes themselves are connected so water collection is spread across all three totes. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The genius of this system is that I have a pump connected to the water totes that allows me to easily move water from the totes to the upstairs deck garden.

When I need water for my garden deck one story up, I activate the pump with a remote control. The pump is a bit noisy once it’s on but it then pumps the water from the totes one story up without my having to carry water.

Here’s the pump model information.

The pump has a remote control so that I can access stored rain water when I need it on the floor above where the water storage totes are located. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Here’s the pump remote. I press the “on” button then can control the water through the hose nozzle which has a lever for on and off as well. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

You do have to disconnect the pump before winter moves in but, short of that, there is no maintenance required.

The water totes hold 275 gallons each and are sold where I live repurposed from other uses. When buying them, make sure they are food grade. You don’t want to kill your plans with any residual chemicals.

Each tote ran around $70 each about 8 years ago.

I fill sunk plastic bottles in pots with rain water from the house guttering system to keep soil hydrated. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Collecting rain water gives me the option to use it when I need it and the pump makes it easy to get the water to where I need it.

Charlotte

Storm Water Garden Ponds

the updated garden ponds are nicely settling in with water plants and a few goldfish. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Storm Water Garden Ponds

There are many reasons one may want to add small garden ponds. In my case these started as storm water ponds to derail water coming down a hill hitting my house.

The first ponds looked like an old well dumping water into a nearby pond. Two iterations later, plastic pond liners formed two natural-looking watering holes that were quite popular with native wildlife.

this was the original storm water garden ponds with a liner we upgraded. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

When I had to replace the liner earlier this spring, my handyman suggested using pond forms instead of pond liners. They will last longer and be easier to maintain, he said. We also could reuse existing rocks as well as a supply a friend donated last year.

I didn’t have any expectations of the results. This needed to be wildlife friendly, including safe spots in case turtles and rabbits fell in.

instead of liners, we used pond forms to make the storm water ponds oonger lasting. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Bees were also using the ponds as a water source, and native frogs had been residents for a number of decades.

By the way, the frogs waited it out. Every end of the day of construction I would find several frogs checking out the new digs.

we reused rocks donated from a friend’s garden and what I already had. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

There are now three small ponds, all capable of catching storm water if it ever rains again. We’re in a drought again this year and rain water is precious.

To help keep water clear, I am adding back some aquatic plants from previous ponds. About a dozen goldfish are also part of the ecosystem now, keeping algae and mosquito larvae in check.

When I think of all of the garden nice to haves and must haves, a small pond falls in the must have category. The number of insects and animals that depend on the water source is a reminder that our gardens are homes to other creatures.

Charlotte

2023 George O. White State Forestry Seedlings

The 2022-2023 George O. White State Nursery Seedling catalog. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

2023 George O. White State Forestry Seedlings

Big news this year for George O. White State Nursery fans. The ordering window now opens at 8 a.m. September 1 instead of midnight so we can all sleep in before we start to order. Oh, I’m not joking, ask around, many of us wanted to get our orders as soon as possible.

Why the big excitement? Because some of the seedlings sell out fast such as paw paw trees. If you want to get them for spring 2023 you have to be quick on the ordering.

Native seedlings are important to our local micro climates and ecosystems. Not only have those plants become adapted to the local growing conditions but they have critical interdependent relationships with local bugs, birds and other animals. In Missouri, the George O. White State Forestry Nursery in Licking, Missouri has been raising, and providing native trees and shrubs since it was started in the 1940s when Missouri’s forests were replanted.

If you are just starting to learn about Missouri native trees and shrubs — or even if you think you know — get a copy of their catalog for your reference files. The color catalog has good photos of each Missouri native tree and shrub species as well as a detailed, easy to read graph of the best uses of each. They also have a detailed guide on site preparation so don’t miss out on how to prepare for success.

Smallest bundles of 10 seedlings are $1 each. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Some of the noted species may be marked sold out. Order it anyway because of the people before you don’t pay for their order, they move on to the next person. For a number of years I have ordered sold out items only to be contacted early December and asked if I was still interested. So if you are contacted, make sure to pay at the time they contact you or they will move on to the next person who ordered.

Each seedling is $1 for a minimum of 10 seedlings. The price goes down for more seedlings in quantities of 25 and 100. There is a $9 handling charge and taxes, too.

This year they started charging a shipping fee but you can save yourself that fee by picking up the seedlings at the Licking site next spring. They usually have a very nice open house around the beginning of April where you can volunteer to help and get your seedlings at the same time.

If you have a Missouri Conservation card, you get 15% off up to $20 order.

False indigo bush has lovely flowers bees love. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Once I get my seedlings, I get them in pots and let their roots get established for at least a year. That way the tree and shrub species has a good start before I place it somewhere on my limestone hillside. Not all of them make it, growing on my hillside can be brutal for plants that can’t get their roots through the rock.

The one exception is flowering dogwoods. Those seedlings don’t like to be moved so I get them into the ground and get their holes full dry leaves. I also cover them in leaves, mark their location and make sure they get watered for the first couple of years. I’ve found the tops may die off but if the roots can make it, new growth may appear a few years later. By marking their location I don’t disturb them as they try to settle in.

Last year, I fell in love a new addition to my hillside; false indigo bushes. I pruned them into a tree form in some spots and was surprised that they made it through our record hot temperatures earlier this year. Guess what I will be ordering again.

What are you planning to order?

Charlotte

September Gardening Chores

All these plants will winter over behind the sliding glass doors. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

September Gardening Chores

It’s almost as if we’re going through a second spring. After record hot summer temperatures in the 100Fs, temperatures are settling in the 80s, prompting plants to focus on reproduction. By that I mean plants are producing nectar to attract pollinators and pollen for them to move from plant to plant. Roses, balloon flowers, Great Blue Lobelia, St. John’s Wort - are all blooming now, a good 2-3 months later than they have bloomed in the past.

I live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5. To make sure my plants have enough time to settle roots, it’s best to get any new plant additions in the ground by mid-September. Here are some other September gardening chores:

1. It is time to stop fertilizing. Plants need to start slowing down and get out of the growth they usually pursue through spring and summer, even without the boost of fertilizers. Add a last dollop of compost mixed in the soil and that should be it for this season.

2. Keep watering trees and shrubs from now through hard frost. Our first hard frost is usually end of October.

 3. If you plan to start a new garden next year, this is the time to cover it with cardboard to kill off any current growth. Anchor it with rocks or something to keep the cardboard from flying off.

4. Bring some of your herbs inside including parsley, chives, rosemary , catnip and stevia. Basil can also be brought inside; sow seeds now to get new plants started for later use. Dry the herbs and store in airtight container.

5. Move peonies. I have several I buried too deep so when replanting, remember to not bury any more than an inch or two beneath oil surface.

6. Daylilies and Iris can also be dug up and divided.

7. If you want a fall garden, this is the time to sow lettuce and spinach seeds. You may also be able to sneak in some beets.

Chrysanthemums will start to show blossoms as fall arrives. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

8. Make notes in your garden diary about jobs for next year. Note what plants worked well this year, what seeds you had meant to plant but didn’t get to – whatever you want to tackle next year.

9. Have favorite annuals? I do, too, and I trim them now before bringing them inside. You can also take root cuttings and start young plants if you have good indoor light. Geraniums, coleus, begonias, impatiens all will winter over inside if you keep them pinched and bushy.

10. Order spring bulbs. Daffodils are toxic to deer so they won’t get munched on. Tulips are edible so buy a few for color, then plant them in pots behind a solid wall with wire if you don’t want wildlife snacking on them in the meantime.

11. If you have planted Amaryllis bulbs, cut off the greenery and put them in a dry, dark place without water and let them rest for a couple of months. If you want to time when they bloom, pot and water them 6 weeks prior to when you want them in bloom.

12. Don’t bag and rake clippings; leave them on your lawn to return Nitrogen to the soil.

13. This is also a good time to stock up on mulch. Buy it in bulk or load up at your local recycling center before they close down for the season.

14. Start trimming plants you plan to bring inside to overwinter. Also repot to combine and take up less space.

Charlotte

August Gardening Chores

August is a good time to map out spots for more surprise lilies. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

August Gardening Chores

The record hot temperatures of this summer so far have kept me outside only to water and check on my bees. Otherwise it’s been just too hot to plant. With soil parched and dry, plants have little chance of surviving.

1. This is a good time of the year to prepare for plant sales. For the last few years I have been focused on adding plants that survive the August hot temperatures and continue to bloom into fall. They also have to be perennials, or plants that return on their own every year and if they are native plants, even better. And they have to be accessible and attractive to pollinators.

2. As surprise lilies make their delightful appearance throughout my garden, this is a good time to mark other spots to add bulbs. I try to place surprise lilies along paths and in unexpected spots so that they continue to delight, and surprise, year after year.

3. As hot temperatures return later this month, remember to water for summer conditions.

• Water plants at root level, which means no sprinklers. Use underground wands and move the wands to saturate soil. Gardens need an inch of rain a week. Don’t forget established shrubs and older trees, they also need moisture delivered to their roots to make sure they make it through the record hot August temperatures.

• Water potted plants daily; if temperatures are once again hitting record levels, maybe twice a day and move them into shade. Add compost to keep the potted soil healthy. Fertilize once a week, especially after a rain.

4.     If you didn’t get to planting your vegetable garden this year, at least toss a few buckwheat seeds to help improve your soil for next year. Buckwheat will sprout in about 6 weeks and will be welcome fall food for pollinators as well.

5.     There’s still time to get some favorite short-growing vegetables in the ground: beets, cucumbers, dill and zinnias can still get planted before our first hard frost.

6. If you haven’t been using your fresh herbs, this is a good time to start. Most may have flowered and lost some of their potency but they still can be added to salads and other summer dishes. Rosemary and chamomile can be harvested and used in bloom. I chop up and freeze some of mine in ice cubes for winter use in soups.

I have a few plants stashed waiting to get in the ground! (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

7. Why yes, I also have a stash of plants that haven’t made it into the ground yet. There’s no point planting them when the ground is so dry so I keep them watered until conditions improve. Remember to periodically touch their soil to make sure you are keeping them hydrated.

8.     My tomatoes are finally ripening. Try to keep them evenly watered to minimize cracking. And enjoy!

9. Have peonies you want to divide? Wait until after a good rain but you can start dividing them now through September. Bury the root “eyes” no more than an inch beneath the soil; if you bury them deeper the plants won’t flower. If you have to move peonies without rain, use a hose to soak the soil around the plant first before you try to dig it up.

10.     You can also dig up daylilies and iris now to divide and re-plant. Again I would wait until after a good rain. Remember to use gardening gloves so your hands don't get cracked. If you still need to move the plants, at least water the area with a hose first so you don’t rip roots when you try to dig them up.

11.     Start saving seeds for next year. Marigolds, zinnias and sunflowers have a lot of seeds that can easily be stored.

12.     I am also developing new flower beds for next year by removing starts, adding cardboard and mulching.

13. Hot temperatures can prompt trees to drop leaves early. Leave leaves on the ground to return nitrogen to the soil. If you are worried about them sitting on grass, set your mower to a higher setting and cut them up when you mow. Leaves are a wonderful source of soil amendments. They also work well as mulch, helping to retain water when leaves are underground or under mulch.

Charlotte

July Gardening Chores

James A. Mess daily inspects his favorite pot of herbs. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

July Gardening Chores

Record heat. We’re having temps in the 100Fs, making me wonder what will happen in our typically hot months of July and August. Among the other chores for July, besides enjoying picking berries and daily checking your favorite herbs, will be rethinking garden plants that can handle heat. Other chores for USDA Hardiness zone 5:

1.     Deadhead flowering plants. Removing spent blooms will help keep plants healthy and may even give you a second and third wave of flowers. I use sewing and quilting thread snips to quickly remove spent blooms.

2.     Remove weeds/unwanted plants. Unwanted plants take up nutrients, moisture and space away from desired plants. In this context, competition is not a good thing.

3.     Know your weeds. If you weren’t sure what it was before, whatever was growing should be showing its true identity by now. Many plants casually labeled weeds are forgotten herbs; others, like goldenrod, are blamed for what a true weed, ragweed does, which is aggravate allergies. And ragweed is a good plant, it only grows in very poor soil and adds nutrients to improve it before it dies off. Did I say know your weeds already??

4.     Give your garden one inch of water a week. When you water, use a watering wand or place the hose into the ground, no sprinkling. In hot summer weather, using sprinklers is a waste, the water just evaporates before it even hits the ground.

5.     Touch up mulch. Mulch will help keep garden beds cool. Make sure it’s aged mulch. If the mulch is steaming, it’s too young to use on flower beds.

6.     Keep your early morning dates with Japanese beetles. Catch them in soap-filled buckets to help reduce the population. Don’t try to catch them later in the day, they will just fly off.

7.     No more compost for woody plants, time for them to start hardening off and getting ready for winter.

8.     Don’t forget to water trees deeply, especially newly-planted trees and the oldest ones.

Cocktail tomatoes start to produce fruit. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

9.     Rambler roses done blooming? Prune.

10. How are your vines? My blackberries and clematis need a little help so I gauge their possible growth for the rest of this season and add support. Oh, I’m often wrong, the idea is just to give them extra support or it’s a mess trying to untangle them later. I usually wait until next year then and start with fresh growth.

11. I am starting to make new flower beds so I am hauling cardboard boxes home to get a good start. Once I line the beds with cardboard, I add mulch to start making the foundation of the bed. After the next rain, soil will be added, then another layer of mulch.

12. Start thinking about what needs to be done early next spring. I keep a list, check it twice…

13. The nearby composter will also get cleaned out. Not entirely, leave a good bucket-full as compost starter for the next batch.

14. Mowing grass? Don’t bag or rake clippings, they return Nitrogen to the soil.

15. Plant buckwheat in open areas. It’s not only a fast-growing, Nitrogen-introducing cover crop for garden spots, it also gives bees a source of food during August, when little else is in bloom.

Charlotte

Coleus From Cut Tops

Coleus are favorite annuals in mid-Missouri for their colorful leaves. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Coleus From Cut Tops

I found these coleus cut tops when I was recycling some dead shrubs out of my garden at our local recycling center.

There are many plants that are easy to grow from cut tops and Coleus has to be one of the easiest. Coleus have a wide range of sizes and leaf colors, similar in my mind to the wide variety of hostas and irises.

These are different coleus a friend uses at the shady front of her house. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Coleus are sold as annuals for USDA Hardiness zone 5. Depending on where they are planted, they may reseed themselves from year to year. Most gardeners grow new ones from either seed or cuttings.

I brought these coleus pieces home, let them sit in water to rehydrate for an hour or so. I planted them in one of my empty deck pots. By planting I mean I made a hole in the watered soil; pushed the plant down to where leaves were attached to the stem and covered the stem.

The pot was watered every day with the rest of the deck plants and frankly looked pretty sorry for the first couple of weeks.

The plants now have rooted and are starting to put on some growth.

They will be wintered over inside and be ready for getting their tops cut late winter to grow more potted plants next spring.

When in bloom, coleus also offer beautiful blue spike flowers. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Now one of the often overlooked benefits of planting coleus in our gardens is the flowers. Several friends have told me they pinch off the flower buds to keep the plants bushy.

I let them flower so they can feed pollinators. And just think of the added beauty of blue flowers in your garden!

Charlotte

Cucumber Cages

One of my cucumbers growing over a traditional metal tomato cage. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Cucumber Cages

The end of the growing season is a good time to pick up supplies for next year. One of my favorite items to get on sale are “tomato cages,” something I use for a variety of crops.

This year, my tomato cages easily turned into cucumber cages. This is my first year to grow cucumbers in my edible deck garden and one plant in particular escaped my attention. I planted it in an empty pot late in the season. This is a 55-day variety so it still had enough time to deliver cucumbers before our first hard frost mid to late October.

One of my cats likes to play with the cucumber leaves from the catnip pot. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

By the time I found one of my cats entangled in the cucumber vine, the plant was not only well-established but needing support as it grows.

I was easily able to place a tomato cage close to the plant roots and then carefully wind the vines around each of the tomato cage sides. For next year I plan to use the larger tomato cage for cucumbers because of the weight of the ripe cucumbers.

And yes, I’ve harvested cucumbers from this pot and two other pots where I’ve been growing cucumbers. And the pot has been moved away from the catnip pot, where one of my young cats likes to nap.

Charlotte

Water Saving Totes

This is the view of the space under my deck when it was under construction where I connected three water totes to the gutter system to collect rain water. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Water Saving Totes

This is the latest addition to my rain-saving system, water totes saving rain water collected through my house gutter system.

Several decades ago, I connected my house gutters to pipes that collect rain water into my back pond. These totes collect rain water first and the overflow now continues into the pipes that guide the rain water into my pond.

I love the system. The water totes sit under my deck, all three connected so they evenly collect rain water and evenly empty the totes as the collected water is used. My handyman laughed when I said how could I possibly use this much saved rain water and he was right, the water comes in handy during Missouri’s August dearth.

The totes themselves are connected so water collection is spread across all three totes. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Now the genius of this system is that I have a pump connected to the water totes that allows me easy access to the stored water on the bottom level to water my nearby outside garden.

When I need water for my garden deck one story up, I activate the pump with a remote control. The pump is a bit noisy once it’s on but it then pumps the water from the totes one story up without my having to carry water.

Here’s the pump model information.

The pump has a remote control so that I can access stored rain water when I need it on the floor above where the water storage totes are located. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Here’s the pump remote. I press the “on” button then can control the water through the hose nozzle which has a lever for on and off as well. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

You do have to disconnect the pump before winter moves in but, short of that ,there is no maintenance required.

The water totes hold 275 gallons each and are sold where I live repurposed from other uses. When buying them, make sure they are food grade. You don’t want to kill your plans with any residual chemicals.

Each tote ran around $70 each about 5 years ago.

My pond down the hill holds rain water collected through my gutter system and currently holds blooming Missouri Sacred Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera,) (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

We’re behind getting the pond repaired; it sprung a leak several years ago but the rain water has kept the pond plants alive all these years. And the deer and other wildlife don’t seem to mind that the rocks have fallen in.

Hopefully we will have the pond fixed next year.

Charlotte

September Gardening Jobs

A little paint and these will be ready to go back into the garden. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

September Gardening Jobs

Ok I’m officially still behind in some earlier chores so I need to catch up. I still have plants sitting in pots because the ground was too hard and dry to dig but they need to be finding permanent homes. I live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5 hoping that our fall will be long enough to give the plants time to settle in their roots.

1. If you have been fertilizing, it is time to stop. Plants need to start slowing down and get out of the growth they usually pursue through spring and summer, even without the boost of fertilizers. Add a last dollop of compost mixed in the soil and that should be it for this season.

2. Keep watering trees and shrubs from now through hard frost. Our first hard frost is usually mid to end of October.

 3. If you plan to start a new garden next year, this is the time to cover it with cardboard to kill off any current growth.

4. Bring some of your herbs inside including parsley, chives, rosemary , catnip and stevia. Basil can also be brought inside; sow seeds now to get new plants started for later use. Dry the herbs and store in airtight container.

5. Good time to move peonies. I have several I buried too deep so when replanting, remember to not bury any more than an inch or two beneath the soil surface.

6. Daylilies and Iris can also be dug up and divided.

7. If you want a fall garden, this is the time to sow lettuce and spinach seeds. You may also be able to sneak in some beets.

Chrysanthemums will start to show blossoms as fall arrives. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

8. Make notes in your garden diary about to dos for next year. Note what plants worked well this year, what seeds you had meant to plant but didn’t get to – whatever you want to tackle next year.

9. Have favorite annuals? I do, too, and I trim them now before bringing them inside. You can also take root cuttings and start young plants if you have good indoor light. Geraniums, coleus, begonias, impatiens all will winter over inside if you keep them pinched and bushy.

10. Order spring bulbs. Daffodils are toxic to deer so they won’t get munched on. Tulips are edible so buy a few for color, then plant them in pots behind a solid wall with wire if you don’t want wildlife snacking on them in the meantime.

11. If you have planted Amaryllis bulbs, cut off the greenery and put them in a dry, dark place without water and let them rest for a couple of months. If you want to time when they bloom, pot and water them 6 weeks prior to when you want them in bloom.

12. Don’t bag and rake clippings, leave them on your lawn to return Nitrogen to the soil.

13. This is also a good time to stock up on mulch. Buy it in bulk or load up at your local recycling center before they close down for the season.

14. Start trimming plants you plan to bring inside to overwinter.

15. And in my case, I figured out how to bring fresh catnip in that won’t be disturbed by an amorous James A Mess, who loves his catnip. I have some planted in a hanging basket.

Charlotte

Waterfall Visitor

This waterfall sits by my front porch bench so I can enjoy the sound. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Waterfall Visitor

Water is an important element in any garden. Besides keeping plants and animals hydrated, it is pleasing to the ear. I keep a small waterfall next to my front deck bench where I can enjoy the sound and watch passing visitors.

One of the waterfall visitors this year was this water-attracted frog. Can you spot him in the photo on top?

This was a gift from a friend and keeps the waterfall company. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

No, not this one. This one is a fake frog, a gift from a friend who knows I enjoy having frogs around my garden.

I do have a number of resident frogs: spring peepers live in the plants on my deck. I also have bullfrogs and green frogs in my small ponds. And there’s a nice population of toads around as well.

Frogs can camouflage themselves to blend in with their surroundings so look at the top photo again and see if you can spot him.

This is our new visitor enjoying the waterfall. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Here he is, sitting on the bottom of the waterfall and staying very still since he knows he’s been spotted. Now to identify which one he is. Care to guess?

Charlotte

Shopping State Nursery

This postcard reminder arrived last week. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Shopping State Nursery

I have to confess, just the thought of window shopping the George O. White State Nursery catalog is exciting. And a couple of years ago, they moved up the ordering window from November 1 to September 1, making daydreaming easier as one looks around the garden to imagine what can be planted where.

The George O. White Nursery was started by a US Forest Service employee in the 1930s to help replant Missouri’s overgrazed, over cut forests. The nursery is now managed by the Missouri Department of Conservation, which offers their excess seedlings from replanting projects to the general public.

Their seeds are sourced from participating land management agencies that need plants for restoration projects or purchased from native seed companies.

Oops, two more native Rose Mallows that still need to get planted from last year’s order. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Now there are several good reasons to jump on that September 1 ordering window:

1. Sought-after plants - and those vary from year to year - disappear quickly. Serviceberry, Eastern Redbuds and Witch Hazel sold out quickly last year but that doesn’t mean you can’t get any. The trick is to order your plants early and pay for them within the 30 day payment window.

2. If you see something you want marked as sold out, place an order anyway. Many people order early but wait to pay. The nursery cancels those unpaid orders and moves on to the next person on the waiting list. I’ve picked up originally sold out plants because the person who ordered before me didn’t pay.

3. Their catalog - online and in print - is an excellent information source for what to plant for what purpose. Even if you don’t order from them now, get a copy of the catalog for your gardening library, they include a copy of the catalog if you get the monthly Missouri Conservationist Magazine. You can also request a copy and download a copy.

Now these will be seedlings so think about where you can plant these babies for best survival. They will be shipped next spring so we have plenty of time to daydream - I mean, plan!

Charlotte

August Gardening Jobs

Local nurseries start to mark down stock in August. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

August Gardening Jobs

August is a tough month for me. Yes, weather in mid-Missouri is hot and dry, my bee colonies are at their largest sizes of the year but it’s the nursery plant sales. Nurseries and garden centers start to mark down their inventory in August and I could easily take everything home.

1. Instead, I prepare for the plant sales. For the last few years I have been focused on adding plants that survive the August hot temperatures and continue to bloom into fall. They also have to be perennials, or plants that return on their own every year and if they are native plants, even better. And they have to be accessible and attractive to pollinators.

2. As surprise lilies make their delightful appearance throughout my garden, this is a good time to mark other spots to add bulbs. I try to place surprise lilies along paths and in unexpected spots so that they continue to delight, and surprise, year after year.

3. The forecast is calling for several cool and dry days after almost a week of rain, which has given Missouri’s soil a welcome break from the usual record hot conditions. As hot temperatures return later this month, remember to water for summer conditions.

• Water plants at root level, which means no sprinklers. Use underground wands and move the wands to saturate soil. Gardens need an inch of rain a week. Don’t forget established shrubs and older trees, they also need moisture delivered to their roots to make sure they make it through the record hot August temperatures.

• 2Water potted plants daily; if temperatures are once again hitting record levels, maybe twice a day and move them into shade. Add compost to keep the potted soil healthy. Fertilize once a week, especially after a rain.

4.     If you didn’t get to planting your vegetable garden this year, at least toss a few buckwheat seeds to help improve your soil for next year. Buckwheat will sprout in about 6 weeks and will be welcome fall food for pollinators as well.

5.     There’s still time to get some favorite short-growing vegetables in the ground: beets, cucumbers, dill and zinnias can still get planted before our first hard frost.

6. If you haven’t been using your fresh herbs, this is a good time to start. Most may have flowered and lost some of their potency but they still can be added to salads and other summer dishes. Rosemary and chamomile can be harvested and used in bloom. I chop up and freeze some of mine in ice cubes for winter use in soups.

And I have a few other plants stashed waiting to get in the ground! (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

7. Why yes, I also have another stash of plants that haven’t made it into the ground yet. There’s no point planting them when the ground is so dry so I keep them watered until conditions improve. Remember to periodically touch their soil to make sure you are keeping them hydrated.

8.     My tomatoes are finally ripening. Try to keep them evenly watered to minimize cracking. And enjoy!

9. Have peonies you want to divide? Wait until after a good rain but you can start dividing them now through September. Bury the root “eyes” no more than an inch or two beneath the soil; if you bury them deeper the plants won’t flower. If you have to move peonies without rain, use a hose to soak the soil around the plant before you try to dig it up.

10.     You can also dig up daylilies and iris now to divide and re-plant. Again I would wait until after a good rain. Remember to use gardening gloves so your hands don't get cracked. If you still need to move the plants, at least water the area with a hose first so you don’t rip roots when you try to dig them up.

11.     Start saving seeds for next year. Marigolds, zinnias and sunflowers have a lot of seeds that can easily be stored.

12.     I am also developing new flower beds for next year by removing starts, adding cardboard and mulching.

13. Hot temperatures can prompt trees to drop leaves early. Leave leaves on the ground to return nitrogen to the soil. If you are worried about them sitting on grass, set your mower to a higher setting and cut them up when you mow. Leaves are a wonderful source of soil amendments. They also work well as mulch, helping to retain water when leaves are underground or under mulch.

Charlotte

Surprise Lilies

Surprise lilies are North America’s cousin to tropical Amaryllis. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Surprise Lilies

One of the reasons I know August is around the corner is because “naked ladies” are popping up around town, and in my hillside garden. A cousin of South American Amaryllis, the pink flowers on top of two to three-foot stems are also known as surprise lilies, Resurrection lilies and August lilies because the stems seem to pop up out of nowhere.

Surprise lilies have been cultivated for centuries in their native Japan. They were first introduced to American gardeners around 1880.

There are a number of different colors and shapes; the most well known variety here is the pink surprise lily, Lycoris squamigera.

Surprise lilies store energy in bulbs that can grow to 3 inches wide. One-inch wide green leaves emerge in late winter or early spring and then turn yellow and die away. The plants go dormant until flowers emerge in mid-summer, which allows them to survive prolonged periods of summer drought.

Overnight, they seem to pop out of the ground with little fanfare, often growing several inches from one day to the next!

Surprise lilies are quite hardy and easy to grow. They grow well in full sun, part shade, and even heavy shade. By planting them in different sunlight conditions, I can extend the surprise lily season in my garden from mid-summer through the green dearth of August, when little starts blooming. They also thrive in both sandy and heavy clay soils.

These surprise lilies are growing in shade in my apiary. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Because bulbs multiply, it’s best to dig them up and divide them every 5 years or so. I think about dividing them but I am not that disciplined. I do have several patches around my hillside garden only because I inadvertently dug them up when planting something else in a spot I thought was vacant.

They look best planted in clusters.

Depending on your soil, bulbs can be planted from 3-6 inches deep - the deeper the better so they can be assured winter protection. Like daffodils, surprise lilies are toxic to deer, mice and other bulb-eating garden residents, including insects.

To transplant, dig up bulbs in spring after leaves have turned yellow.

They can also be dug up after blooms fade in August, assuming soil is not as hard as concrete from lack of rain. Plant them quickly after digging them up so roots have enough time to establish themselves before the first hard frost.

I love seeing them clearly when they bloom but you can also plant them in the middle of a garden bed so the naked stems will be covered by surrounding plants. If you enjoy pink tulips in spring, like in these pink tulips quilts, you will enjoy having the pink pop of color mid-summer.

Blooms are long lasting and fragrant, making them good cut flowers. I like to put them in a clear flower vase so I can enjoy how the stems curl up at the bottom. They are also pollinator favorites, especially bumblebees and humningbird moths.

Charlotte