September Gardening Chores

All these plants will winter over behind the sliding glass doors. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

September Gardening Chores

It’s almost as if we’re going through a second spring. After record hot summer temperatures in the 100Fs, temperatures are settling in the 80s, prompting plants to focus on reproduction. By that I mean plants are producing nectar to attract pollinators and pollen for them to move from plant to plant. Roses, balloon flowers, Great Blue Lobelia, St. John’s Wort - are all blooming now, a good 2-3 months later than they have bloomed in the past.

I live in USDA Hardiness Zone 6b. To make sure my plants have enough time to settle roots, it’s best to get any new plant additions in the ground by mid-September. Here are some other September gardening chores:

1. It is time to stop fertilizing. Plants need to start slowing down and get out of the growth they usually pursue through spring and summer, even without the boost of fertilizers. Add a last dollop of compost mixed in the soil and that should be it for this season.

2. Keep watering trees and shrubs from now through hard frost. Our first hard frost is usually end of October.

 3. If you plan to start a new garden next year, this is the time to cover the area with cardboard to kill off any current growth. Anchor it with rocks or something to keep the cardboard from flying off.

4. Bring some of your herbs inside including parsley, chives, rosemary , catnip and stevia. Basil can also be brought inside; sow seeds now to get new plants started for later use. Dry the herbs and store in airtight container.

5. Move peonies. I have several I buried too deep so when replanting, remember to not bury any more than an inch or two beneath oil surface.

6. If you want a fall garden, this is the time to sow lettuce, radishes and spinach seeds. You may also be able to sneak in some beets.

7. Make notes in your garden diary about jobs for next year. Note what plants worked well this year, what seeds you had meant to plant but didn’t get to – whatever you want to tackle next year.

8. Have favorite annuals? I do, too, and I trim them now before bringing them inside. You can also take root cuttings and start young plants if you have good indoor light. Geraniums, coleus, begonias, impatiens all will winter over inside if you keep them pinched and bushy.

9. Order spring bulbs to plant now. Daffodils are toxic to deer so they won’t get munched on. Tulips are edible so buy a few for color, then plant them in pots behind a solid wall with wire if you don’t want wildlife snacking on them in the meantime.

10. If you have planted Amaryllis bulbs, cut off the greenery and put them in a dry, dark place without water and let them rest for a couple of months. If you want to time when they bloom, pot and water them 6 weeks prior to when you want them in bloom.

11. Don’t bag and rake clippings; leave them on your lawn to return nitrogen to the soil.

12. This is also a good time to stock up on mulch. Buy it in bulk or load up at your local recycling center before they close down for the season.

13. Start trimming plants you plan to bring inside to overwinter. Also repot to combine and take up less space.

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Charlotte

Monarchs on the Move

Thjese are fritillary butterflies, often confused with monarchs on purple milkweed. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Monarchs on the Move

Every fall, North America witnesses one of the great wonders of the natural world: the monarch butterfly migration. From late August through October, millions of monarchs begin their journey south. Unlike their short-lived summer cousins, this “super generation” can live up to eight months, long enough to travel thousands of miles to their overwintering sanctuaries.

Eastern monarchs head as far as the mountain forests of central Mexico, where they cluster on oyamel fir trees in breathtaking numbers. Western monarchs, meanwhile, fly to the coast of California, settling into eucalyptus, pine, and cypress groves. After conserving energy all winter, they will begin the long journey north again in spring.

But migration is perilous. Habitat loss, pesticides, and climate shifts have all reduced monarch numbers. Gardeners, however, can make a real difference.

How You Can Help:

• Plant fall nectar flowers. Monarchs need fuel for their long trip. Goldenrod, asters, ironweed, sedum, Mexican sunflower (Tithonia), zinnias, lantana, and coneflowers provide the nectar-rich blooms they rely on well into frost.

• Skip the chemicals. Insecticides kill butterflies outright, while herbicides remove the wildflowers and milkweed they need.

• Leave milkweed standing. Monarchs don’t breed during migration, but native milkweed will be ready when they return in spring.

• Provide shelter. Native trees and shrubs give butterflies safe resting places along the way.

• Create a fueling station. Plant nectar flowers in sunny, sheltered clusters that are easy for monarchs to find as they pass through.

• Join citizen science projects. Programs like Monarch Watch and Journey North track migration and help scientists monitor populations.

As you watch monarchs float southward this fall, remember—they are depending on our gardens as stepping-stones on a journey that can stretch 3,000 miles. By planting with purpose, we can help ensure that this incredible migration continues for generations to come.

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Charlotte

Surprise Lilies Not Lilies

Surprise Lilies Not Lilies

One of the reasons I know August is around the corner is because “naked ladies” are popping up in my hillside garden. Pink flowers on top of two to three-foot leafless stems are also known as surprise lilies, Resurrection lilies and August lilies because the stems seem to pop up out of nowhere.

These plants, however, are not true lilies but are a cousin to Amaryllis, the other bulbs offered for sale around the holidays.

Surprise lilies have been cultivated for centuries in their native Japan. They were first introduced to American gardeners around 1880. There are a number of different colors and shapes; the most well-known variety here is the pink surprise lily, Lycoris squamigera.

Surprise lilies store energy in bulbs that can grow to 3 inches wide. One-inch wide green leaves emerge in late winter or early spring and then turn yellow and die away. The plants go dormant until flowers emerge in mid-summer, which allows them to survive prolonged periods of summer drought.

Surprise lilies are quite hardy and easy to grow. They grow well in full sun, part shade, and even heavy shade. They also thrive in both sandy and heavy clay soils. Give them at least one year from when you plant them to flower.

Because bulbs multiply, it’s best to dig them up and divide every 5 years or so. I think about dividing them but I am not that disciplined. I do have several patches around my hillside garden only because I inadvertently dug them up when planting something else.

Depending on your soil, bulbs can be planted from 3-6 inches deep - the deeper the better so they can be assured winter protection. Like daffodils, surprise lilies are toxic to deer, mice and other bulb-eating garden residents, including insects. They are also insect free not counting the bees that like to visit.

They can also be dug up after blooms fade in August, assuming soil is not as hard as concrete from lack of rain. Plant them quickly after digging them up so roots have enough time to establish themselves before the first hard frost in your area.

I love seeing them clearly when they bloom but you can also plant them in the middle of a garden bed so the naked stems will be covered by surrounding plants.

Blooms are long lasting and fragrant, making them good cut flowers. I like to put them in a clear flower vase so I can enjoy how the stems curl up at the bottom. They are also pollinator favorites, especially bumblebees and hummingbird moths.

You can find bulbs for sale in the fall at home and garden centers or through online retailers.

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Charlotte

August Gardening Chores

August is a good time to map out spots for more surprise lilies. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

August Gardening Chores

The record hot temperatures of this summer so far have kept me outside only to water and check on my bees. Otherwise it’s been just too hot to plant. With soil parched and dry, plants have little chance of surviving.

1. This is a good time of the year to prepare for plant sales. For the last few years I have been focused on adding plants that survive the August hot temperatures and continue to bloom into fall. They also have to be perennials, or plants that return on their own every year and if they are native plants, even better. And they have to be accessible and attractive to pollinators.

2. As surprise lilies make their delightful appearance throughout my garden, this is a good time to mark other spots to add bulbs. I try to place surprise lilies along paths and in unexpected spots so that they continue to delight, and surprise, year after year.

3. As hot temperatures return later this month, remember to water for summer conditions.

• Water plants at root level, which means no sprinklers. Use underground wands and move the wands to saturate soil. Gardens need an inch of rain a week. Don’t forget established shrubs and older trees, they also need moisture delivered to their roots to make sure they make it through the record hot August temperatures.

• Water potted plants daily; if temperatures are once again hitting record levels, maybe twice a day and move them into shade. Add compost to keep the potted soil healthy. Fertilize once a week, especially after a rain.

4.     If you didn’t get to planting your vegetable garden this year, at least toss a few buckwheat seeds to help improve your soil for next year. Buckwheat will sprout in about 6 weeks and will be welcome fall food for pollinators as well.

5.     There’s still time to get some favorite short-growing vegetables in the ground: beets, cucumbers, dill and zinnias can still get planted before our first hard frost.

6. If you haven’t been using your fresh herbs, this is a good time to start. Most may have flowered and lost some of their potency but they still can be added to salads and other summer dishes. Rosemary and chamomile can be harvested and used in bloom. I chop up and freeze some of mine in ice cubes for winter use in soups.

I have a few plants stashed waiting to get in the ground! (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

7. Why yes, I also have a stash of plants that haven’t made it into the ground yet. There’s no point planting them when the ground is so dry so I keep them watered until conditions improve. Remember to periodically touch their soil to make sure you are keeping them hydrated.

8.     My tomatoes are finally ripening. Try to keep them evenly watered to minimize cracking. And enjoy!

9. Have peonies you want to divide? Wait until after a good rain but you can start dividing them now through September. Bury the root “eyes” no more than an inch beneath the soil; if you bury them deeper the plants won’t flower. If you have to move peonies without rain, use a hose to soak the soil around the plant first before you try to dig it up.

10.     You can also dig up daylilies and iris now to divide and re-plant. Again I would wait until after a good rain. Remember to use gardening gloves so your hands don't get cracked. If you still need to move the plants, at least water the area with a hose first so you don’t rip roots when you try to dig them up.

11.     Start saving seeds for next year. Marigolds, zinnias and sunflowers have a lot of seeds that can easily be stored.

12.     I am also developing new flower beds for next year by removing starts, adding cardboard and mulching.

13. Hot temperatures can prompt trees to drop leaves early. Leave leaves on the ground to return nitrogen to the soil. If you are worried about them sitting on grass, set your mower to a higher setting and cut them up when you mow. Leaves are a wonderful source of soil amendments. They also work well as mulch, helping to retain water when leaves are underground or under mulch.

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Charlotte

July Gardening Chores

James A. Mess daily inspects his favorite pot of herbs. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

July Gardening Chores

Record heat. We’re having temps in the 100Fs, making me wonder what will happen in our typically hot months of July and August. Among other July chores, besides enjoying picking berries and daily checking favorite herbs, I will continue to rethink garden plants that can handle heat. Other chores for USDA Hardiness zone 6b:

1.     Deadhead flowering plants. Removing spent blooms will help keep plants healthy and may even give you a second and third wave of flowers. I use sewing and quilting thread snips to quickly remove spent blooms.

2.     Remove unwanted plants. Unwanted plants you may call weeds take up nutrients, moisture and space away from desired plants. In this context, competition is not a good thing.

3.     Know your weeds. If you weren’t sure what it was before, whatever was growing should be showing its true identity by now. Many plants casually labeled weeds are forgotten herbs; others, like goldenrod, are blamed for what a true weed, ragweed does, which is aggravate allergies. And ragweed is a good plant, it only grows in very poor soil and adds nutrients to improve it before it dies off. Did I say know your weeds already??

4.     Give your garden one inch of water a week. When you water, use a watering wand or place the hose into the ground. In hot summer weather, using sprinklers is a waste, the water just evaporates before it even hits the ground.

5.     Touch up mulch. Mulch will help keep garden beds cool. Make sure it’s aged mulch. If the mulch is steaming, it’s too young to use on flower beds.

6.     Keep your early morning dates with Japanese beetles. Catch them in soap-filled buckets to help reduce the population. Don’t try to catch them later in the day, they will just fly off.

7.     No more compost for woody plants, time for them to start hardening off and getting ready for winter.

8.     Don’t forget to water trees deeply, especially newly-planted trees and the oldest ones.

9.     Rambler roses done blooming? Prune.

10. How are your vines? My blackberries and clematis need a little help so I gauge their possible growth for the rest of this season and add support. Oh, I’m often wrong, the idea is just to give them extra support or it’s a mess trying to untangle them later. I usually wait until next year then and start with fresh growth.

11. I am starting to make new flower beds so I am hauling cardboard boxes home to get a good start. Once I line the beds with cardboard, I add mulch to start making the foundation of the bed. After the next rain, soil will be added, then another layer of mulch.

12. Start thinking about what needs to be done early next spring. I keep a list, check it twice…

13. The nearby composter will also get cleaned out. Not entirely, leave a good bucket-full as compost starter for the next batch.

14. Mowing grass? Don’t bag or rake clippings, they return Nitrogen to the soil.

15. Plant buckwheat in open areas. It’s not only a fast-growing, Nitrogen-introducing cover crop for garden spots, it also gives bees a source of food during August, when little else is in bloom.

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Charlotte

Heat Advisory Tips for Plants

patio umbrellas protect container gardens during record heat. (charlotte ekker wigGIns photo)

Heat Advisory Tips for Plants

We are seeing record-high heat advisories again this summer in USDA Hardiness zone 6b, a time that challenges not only people but animals in our gardens as well. Plants stop reproducing and enter survival mode when temperatures are over 86F. The following are some tips to help us all manage the record hot and humid temperatures:

1. Water Deeply & Early

• Water early in the morning (before 9 AM) to reduce evaporation.

• Soak the root zone deeply 1-2 times a week. Underground watering wands help get the water to roots.

• Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation for efficiency.

• Water hanging plants mornings and evening; move them into shade or cool garage temporarily.

• Add water to bird baths daily so birds and other garden residents have access to water.

2. Mulch Generously

• Water deeply before mulching. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature and retain moisture.

• Use straw, shredded leaves, wood chips at least 3” deep.

• Keep mulch away from tree trunks.

• Apply as a tire surrounding the plants leaving a lower trough towards the center where water can accumulate.

3. Stop Fertilizing

• Fertilizer encourages tender growth that wilts easily.

• Pause fertilizing until temperatures are cooler.

4. Provide Shade

• Use old sheets, row covers, or shade cloth.

• Move plants into afternoon shady areas.

• Patio umbrellas help protect plants in containers.

• Prioritize afternoon sun protection (2-6 PM).

5. Prioritize the Most Vulnerable

• Focus on seedlings, containers, leafy greens, and transplants.

6. Protect Roots in Containers

• Bury plastic bottles with holes so watering can get water to roots.

• Move pots to shade if possible.

• Group containers and wrap them in light-colored fabric.

7. Avoid Disturbing the Soil

• Avoid weeding or transplanting during extreme heat.  

8. Mist in the Evening

• Light evening misting can cool foliage.

• Avoid misting in full sun to prevent damage.

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Charlotte

Lantana Mosquito Deterrent

LANTANA GROWS IN VARIOUS COLOR COMBINATIONS, I’M PARTIAL TO THE YELLOW. (CHARLOTTE EKKER WIGGINS PHOTO)

Lantana Mosquito Deterrent

I remember having Lantana (Lantana camara) surrounding our Lima, Peru patio growing up. It was used as a bug - particularly mosquitos - deterrent. There is some science behind the claim—though today we know it's more effective in certain forms than just growing it in the garden.

Why Lantana Works Against Mosquitoes

1. Natural essential oils:
Lantana leaves and flowers contain volatile compounds (such as caryophyllene, germacrene D, and eucalyptol) that mosquitoes find irritating or repellent. These compounds are especially concentrated in lantana leaf extracts or essential oils.

2. Research support:
A few studies (especially in tropical regions like India and Africa) have shown that lantana leaf extract in coconut oil can provide up to 94.5% protection from Anopheles mosquitoes (malaria carriers) for a few hours. This is significant in rural areas with limited access to commercial repellents.

How to Use Lantana as a Mosquito Repellent

Planting in the garden. Low to moderate. May deter mosquitoes in immediate proximity; best when planted in sunny areas near seating spots. Scent is strongest when leaves are crushed.

Crushing leaves. Moderate. Rub fresh leaves on skin (test for irritation first). Not as effective as DEET but can offer short-term protection.

Making or buying oil-based repellents. High. Use infused oil or diluted essential oil (never undiluted) as a topical repellent or spray. Must be reapplied regularly.

In potted containers near doors/patios. Moderate. May help create a small buffer zone around entrances or outdoor seating.

Important Considerations

• Toxicity to pets: Lantana is toxic to dogs, cats, and livestock if ingested. Keep out of reach if you have curious animals.

• Invasiveness: In warmer climates (like the southern U.S.), Lantana camara can become invasive. Use sterile or native cultivars where possible.

• Not a substitute for strong repellents: For areas with heavy mosquito pressure or mosquito-borne diseases, lantana should be considered a supplement, not a replacement, for other control methods.

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Charlotte

Ten Tips to Grow Roses

isn’t this lovely? It’s the first thornless rose from a climbing rose I planted thsi year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Ten Tips to Grow Roses

Let’s face it, growing roses in usda zone 6b can be challenging. I decided to try again last year when I bought bare root roses and kept them in pots for a year. They wintered over in their pots buried into their destined growing spots, then were taken out of their pots and planted this spring. Compost and worm castings are feeding their soil; a wet spring has made their transition easier.

Here are ten tips if you also want to try to grow roses:

1. Winter Hardiness
Opt for roses bred for winter hardiness and disease resistance. Excellent choices include:

• Shrub roses like Knock Out® and Oso Easy® (Knock Out has two varieties that have scent)

• Rugosa roses (very hardy and fragrant)

• Older heirloom roses (many are resilient once established)

• Miniature roses, which are a shrub rose, have worked well for me in the past.

2. Full Sun
Roses need 6–8 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sun is especially important to dry dew and prevent fungal diseases.

3. Well-Drained Soil
Amend heavy clay with compost and aged manure. Raised beds or mounded soil help avoid root rot, especially in wet springs.

4. Water Deeply but Infrequently
Water at the base, not overhead. In Zone 6b, aim for about 1–2 inches per week.

5. Mulch 
Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch (shredded bark, leaf mold, compost) to:

• Retain soil moisture

• Suppress weeds

• Prevent soil splash (reduces fungal spores)

6. Prune in Early Spring (March–April)
When forsythia bloom, it’s time to:

• Prune out dead/damaged canes

• Shape the plant

• Open the center for airflow (reduces disease)

7. Feed Regularly but Stop in Late Summer
Use a balanced rose fertilizer (e.g. 10-10-10 or an organic rose mix) starting in early spring. Stop feeding after mid-August so plants harden off before frost.
If in a drought, don't fertilize or your stressing your roses.

8. Winter Protection. In late fall:

• Stop deadheading and pruning

• Mound soil or mulch 8–12 inches high around the base

• For tender types, wrap with burlap or use rose cones (with ventilation)

9. Scout for Pests and Diseases Weekly.
Zone 6b’s humidity encourages issues. Watch for:

• Japanese beetles (June–July): skeletonize leaves

• Aphids: cluster on buds and new growth

• Spider mites (hot, dry spells): stippled yellowing leaves

• Black spot: dark leaf spots, yellowing and drop

• Powdery mildew: white coating on leaves
  Use Neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking early. Favor resistant varieties to minimize issues.

10. Practice Good Garden Hygiene
Remove all fallen leaves in fall to reduce disease spores. Clean pruners between plants to avoid spreading viruses or fungi.

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Charlotte

Keep Cats Indoors

My last two rescues supervise a visiting chipmunk. they have access to the deck once I clear it. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Reasons to Keep Cats Indoors

There are some extraordinary estimates about how many birds die yearly. The leading cause of death? Feral and outdoor cats. Keeping cats indoors has numerous benefits for both the cats and the environment. Here are 10 compelling reasons why cats should be kept as indoor pets:

1. Prevention of Wildlife Hunting: Cats are natural hunters. Outdoor cats can have a significant impact on local wildlife populations, particularly birds. Keeping cats indoors helps protect native wildlife.

2. Protection from Predators: Cats that roam outside may encounter predators such as coyotes, hawks, or even aggressive dogs. Indoors, they are safe from these threats unless they have a mischievous sibling and that's a whole different kind of playful predator.

3. Reduced Risk of Disease: Indoor cats are less likely to contract diseases and infections that are commonly spread through contact with other cats or wildlife.

4. Prevention of Parasites: Fleas, ticks, and other parasites are more likely to infest cats that spend time outside. Keeping cats indoors reduces the risk of these infestations and associated health problems.

5. Protection from Poisoning: Cats that go outside may accidentally ingest poisonous substances, such as antifreeze, pesticides and toxic plants. 

6. Avoidance of Fights with Other Animals: Outdoor cats are more likely to get into fights with other cats or animals, leading to injuries, abscesses, or infections.

7. Longer Lifespan: Indoor cats generally live longer than their outdoor counterparts. The protection from various hazards and health risks contributes to a longer, healthier life. All of my cats have lived indoors and had an average life span of 21 years.

8. Safety from Traffic: Indoor cats are protected from the dangers of roads and vehicles. Outdoor cats often face the risk of being hit by cars, leading to serious injury or death.

9. Less Exposure to Harsh Weather: Extreme weather conditions, such as heatwaves, freezing temperatures, and storms, can be dangerous for outdoor cats. Indoor cats are safe and comfortable regardless of the weather outside. On the other hand, you may lose access to the center of your bed.

10. Stronger Bond with Owners: Indoor cats often develop closer relationships with people. This can lead to a more fulfilling and affectionate relationship assuming negotiations go well about who sleeps where. See Number 9.

    For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

    Charlotte

Rain Barrels

These steps off my basement now have a space for a rain barrel. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Rain Barrels: Rain at Your Finger Tips!

Living on the down side of a hill means coming up with creative ways to keep water from pooling around my basement. Having totes and nearby ponds collecting water from my house gutters was one of the solutions. Now that my house siding has been replaced, after 5 years and two contractors, a story for another time - my handyman is finishing house details such as installing missing lights, railings and steps out of doorways. He also re-installed parts of the house guttering system and added rain barrels close to areas where I can easily access and use them. Indoor plants as well as an herb garden that grows outside my basement door will now have rain water accessible during the growing season instead of my having to drag a hose from the other side of the house. 
If you haven't considered adding rain barrels to your property, here are some reasons to do so:

• Plant Health Rainwater is typically free of the chemicals and salts found in treated tap water, making it better for plants and gardens. I can tell the difference between watering my plant with rain water and city water. Plants are healthier getting rain water.

• Water Conservation Rain barrels help reduce the demand on municipal water supplies, particularly during dry seasons, by providing an alternative water source for gardening, lawn care, and other non-potable uses.

• Cost Savings By using rainwater for irrigation, you can lower your water bill, especially in areas where water is expensive or usage is metered.

• Emergency Water Supply In case of water shortages or restrictions, stored rainwater can serve as an emergency backup.

• Environmentally Friendly Harvesting rainwater reduces stormwater runoff, which can carry pollutants into local waterways. This helps reduce the environmental impact on local rivers and streams.

If this is a new idea, do a little advance planning. Think through first where you want to place them and what size you will need, then go shopping.

• Initial Cost. Setting up a rain barrel system will require an initial investment. There are complete systems available through garden centers. You can also find rain barrels on sale at garage sales, thrift stores and local home and garden centers at the end of the growing season.

• Maintenance. They will also require regular maintenance to prevent debris buildup. I rarely have a problem with algae growth and mosquitos because I use the water quickly and I welcome frogs for natural pest control.

• Limited Water. Most rain barrels hold 50-100 gallons so place them where you need small water amounts.

• Water Overflow. During heavy rain, rain barrels can overflow, leading to potential flooding. Have them hooked into and out of the house guttering system to reduce water puddling. And you cadd an overflow hose that guides the water overflow away from the house and into a nearby flower bed and rain garden.

• Do They Fit. Rain barrels can take up space and may not be visually appealing. Measure the available space and chose rain barrels that will fit the space and blend in. The rain barrels at the front of my house are green and nicely blend into the landscape.

Having rain barrels will be well worth the effort. Your plants, and frogs, will be happier and healthier!

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Surprise Lilies

Surprise lilies at the front of my missouri home. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Surprise Lilies

Surprise lily season is almost a month early this year, which is another surprise in itself. Every morning I walk to try to spot the various places these stalks are raising buds. Oh, I planted them in spring; by now I don't remember where.

Surprise lilies, also known as magic lilies, naked ladies, and resurrection lilies, are native to Southeast China, Japan, and Korea. They have been available in the United States since 1880 and I think of them as the north American cousin to tropical Amaryllis. The big difference is that surprise lilies are perennials; once planted, they stay outside re-blooming from year to year.

The surprise lily is named for its habit of blooming in mid-summer, after its leaves have died back. The flowers appear suddenly on naked stems, hence the name "surprise lily" and, where I live, "naked ladies." Helps to raise an eyebrow a la Groucho Marx when you say it.

Surprise lilies are hardy in USDA zones 5-9. They prefer full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. They are drought-tolerant once established and one of the few plants that bloom through our hot Midwest weather.

To plant surprise lilies, dig a hole that is twice the width and depth of the bulb. Place the bulb in the hole, pointed side up. I add bone meal whenever I'm planting bulbs, a handful per bulb, to give them a good start. Cover bulb with soil. Water the soil well. Forget where you planted them. I am an expert at this step.

Green leaves will grow in spring, collecting sunlight and storing it in the bulbs. Surprise lily greenery will grow for about a month.
Mid-summer, surprise lily flowers will bloom for 2-4 weeks. After the flowers have faded, the stems will die back. The bulbs will go dormant until the following spring.

Surprise lilies make great cut flowers. Their sweet scent can easily fill a room in a few minutes, making them nice flowering gifts.

Cut them early morning when the flowers are still in bud form. I usually add one in bloom so it's clear what the buds will become.

I also have native pink phlox growing in my garden. They are still in bloom when surprise lilies show up so they make a nice combination.

Both Surprise lilies and native pink phlox are pollinator favorites. Bumblebees mine the Surprise lily nectar while getting covered in pollen; butterflies, hummingbirds and hummingbird moths keep the native pink phlox company.

Why Plant Surprise Lilies

If you are looking for a beautiful and unexpected addition to your garden, consider planting surprise lilies for beauty and pollinator food:

• The flowers are white or pink and have a sweet fragrance.

• The plants can reach a height of 2-3 feet.

• The bulbs can live for many years.

• Surprise lilies are a good choice for pollinator gardens; bumblebees and moth orchids love them.

• They are deer-resistant.

• They can be planted among other perennials that fill in around them.

  For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

  Charlotte

Worm Castings

Worm Castings

You’ve probably seen them advertised recently by home and garden centers. Where I live, we used to buy small bags from a local worm farm that catered to recreation outlets selling fishing worms. Regardless of where you buy them, worm castings are a secret garden weapon. If you don’t know what they are, they are worm poo, nutrient-rich waste produced by earthworms. It’s a mix of beneficial bacteria, enzymes, and nutrients that significantly enhance soil health and plant growth.

I consider worm castings my plant medicine. If I have ailing plants, I give them a dose of worm castings. Within a week or so they seem to improve.

How to Use Worm Castings in the Garden

1. Soil Amendment:

   • Mix worm castings into the soil before planting. Use about 1/4 cup of castings per square foot of garden space. For larger areas, use 10-20% worm castings by volume in the top 6-8 inches of soil.

2. Top Dressing:

   • Sprinkle a thin layer of worm castings (about 1/2 inch) around the base of existing plants. This will provide a slow-release of nutrients as you water.

3. Worm Casting Tea:

   • Ingredients:

     • 1 cup of worm castings

     • 1 gallon of water

     • Optional: 1 tablespoon of molasses (to feed beneficial microbes)

   • How to:

     • Place worm castings in a porous bag (e.g., a cloth bag or pantyhose).

     • Submerge bag in water and let it steep for 24-48 hours, occasionally stirring or aerating the water.

     • Use the tea to water plants or as a foliar spray. This provides a quick nutrient boost and helps ward off pests and diseases.

4. Seed Starting Mix:

   • Mix worm castings into your seed starting mix at a ratio of about 1 part worm castings to 3 parts seed starting mix. This enhances germination rates and early growth.

5. Compost Pile Enhancer:

   • Add worm castings to your compost pile to boost microbial activity and accelerate the composting process.

Once you start using worm castings in your garden you’ll want to raise your own. I have two worm farms in my utility room that consume kitchen scraps and keep me supplied with my plant medicine of choice.

 For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Fighting Japanese Beetles

japanese beetles dining on my white hardy hibiscus blooms. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Fighting Japanese Beetles

Darn it, I forgot to ask my brother who lives in Virginia if Japanese beetles were ravaging his lovely crape myrtles this year. Years ago about this time, he was filing up 5 gallon buckets with these iridescent invasives. For his birthday, I shipped him 250,000 nematodes to treat his soil. Those microscopic worms eat the Japanese beetle grubs and reduce next year’s population.

The 3/8th of an inch hard shell beetles are eating machines, devouring more than 200 plant species. Once they turn from grubs into beetles, they set off a scent that says "let's party" to other Japanese beetles, yet another reason why you shouldn’t crush the bugs, no matter how tempting.

If you don't see them, you'll know you have them when your plant leaves turn into lace.

Prior to the beetle's accidental introduction into the United States, the Japanese beetle was found only on the islands of Japan, isolated by water and kept in check by its natural enemies. The beetles entered the country as grubs in soil on Japanese iris roots. By 1920, eradication programs were dropped; the beetle proved to be too prolific of a breeder.

One of the popular options to eliminate these voracious bugs is Japanese beetle traps, which I don’t recommend. Those are basically pheromone-laced paper bags that attract Japanese beetles. The challenge is the bags don’t catch all of them so having more Japanese beetles in your garden means more potential grubs to hatch out next year.

If you insist on using Japanese beetle traps, make sure you place them at the edge of your property and down wind.

Another friend who has chickens uses Japanese beetle traps to collect Japanese beetles, then transfers them to plastic bags and freezes them. The frozen bugs are then fed to her chickens as treats.

What has worked very well for me over the years is dropping them in a can of soapy water early morning, while they are still sluggish. I pop the soapy water-filled coffee can underneath plant branches, then shake them. The bugs fall into the water without my touching them. I’ll confess I have squished a few, especially when I’ve suspected they’re hiding inside my hardy hibiscus flowers. Sometimes they won’t drop out when I shake them so I have to remove the flower head.

For a long term solution, my brother in Virginia has treated his lawn with milky spores. He has dozens of crepe myrtles, one of Japanese beetles favorite munchies. According to him, Japanese beetle grubs eat the spores; get sick; die and, in the process, release more milky spores. It can take several years to eliminate the Japanese beetles, not counting whether your neighbors have treated their lawns.

There are plants Japanese beetles avoid. The typical kind of plant that will help to drive away Japanese beetles will be strong smelling and may taste badly to the insect. Some plants that deter Japanese beetles include many herbs as garlic, rue, tansy, catnip and chives. Other Japanese beetle deterrent plants include white chrysanthemums, leeks, onions, marigolds, white geraniums and larkspur.

There are also plants that Japanese beetles skip or only munch on towards the end of their season. I assume these are just not tasty plants: begonias, caladiums, common lilacs, common pear, tulip tree, flowering dogwood, forsythia, hydrangea, hickory, magnolia, persimmon and most oak trees.

Ok, time to soap up and start picking off those pesky bugs!

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Charlotte

Mole Holes and Voles

Mole Holes and Voles

Mole Holes and Voles Go Away

Yes, I also have a few tunnels even in my soil-challenged Missouri hillside. That’s because I have wood-chipped lined paths that have been decomposing and turning into soil. The soil then is home to some of the vole’s favorite food. But wait, I am getting ahead of myself.
It is helpful to first confirm that you have moles and/or voles in your garden. Hard to do since we usually don’t see them but they do leave tell-tale signs:

• Moles leave those holes with raised piles of soil like tiny volcanos.

• Voles make those long skinny tunnels of soil.

Are they bad? Years ago my hillside soil was so rocky I appreciated the few voles I had. They helped loosen the little soil I had so I used their runs to plant but they didn’t stay long. I didn't have enough food sources for them. They didn’t eat the plants but apparently they didn’t want their lair decorated with plant roots.

Some of my gardening friends have tried some traditional vole and mole deterrents:

1. Vole and Mole-repellent plants such as marigolds, alliums and castor beans. Mixed results on how well those worked.

2. Soil repellents, which usually include castor bean oil. Again mixed results.

3. Vibrating stakes and wind-powered pinwheels; moles and voles are sensitive to vibrations. Again mixed results. I have always suspected those pinwheels produced electricity for mole and vole washer dryers so never used them myself.

4. Burying hardware cloth around a garden perimeter can be hard to do but can work as long as the wire underground can reach about 3 feet underground. Impossible to even try on my limestone hillside.

5. Dogs and cats can work well to keep out unwanted garden visitors. I prefer to see cats inside so they don't also prey on birds but dogs can be a good mole and vole deterrent.

6. Another friend has tried dropping coffee grounds and hot pepper flake mixtures into their holes. She said they’ve either left or developed a taste for a hot morning brew, she’s not sure which one.

What has worked is treating soil with cayenne powder poured into their hole making living conditions unappetizing. Other smelly items in the same vein include garlic or onion, fish, rotten food especially cheese and yogurt. Make sure it’s down south of your deck and open windows or you may be tempted to leave, too.

The best strategy to encourage moles and voles to leave is to take away their food source, grubs. Treating your soil with nematodes will remove the grubs. Grubs will eclose into Japanese beetles so they may be worth the investment to keep your garden free at both ends. It can take a season but once the food source is gone, the moles and voles should leave as well.

What is your favorite mole and vole deterrent?

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Natural Pest Controls

Basil, left, ettagirl, middle, and marigolds, right, are three of some of my natural pest controls. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Natural Pest Controls

We all know using man-made chemicals in our gardens should be a last resort but sometimes we don’t know good alternatives. I haven’t used man made chemicals in my one acre garden for over 40 years so here are some of my effective alternatives:

Plant Buddies

• If you like it on your dish it most likely will get along in your garden. Basil around tomatoes, for example, will not only enhance tomato flavor but will protect tomato plants from bugs. Basil also repels mosquitos and flies.

• Check your local library for the most recent updated books on companion planting.

  Composting

• Keeping your soil healthy will eliminate the source of many of the issues gardeners develop during the growing season. Take the 40% of the food tossed out in this country and compost it; feed it back to the soil to keep it healthy and soil will keep bugs to a minimum.

  Dawn Detergent and Water in a Spray Bottle

• If you need help getting rid of insects, try Dawn detergent and water in a spray bottle. In most cases this will take care of most small bugs you don’t want on your plants: aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies.

• The soap breaks down the protective outer layer of insects, causing them to dehydrate.

  Neem Oil

• When you need something more try Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree and acts as an insect repellent and growth disruptor. It's effective against a wide range of pests, including aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites.

• It's biodegradable and non-toxic to humans and animals but not recommended for use around bees and other pollinators.

  Handpicking

• Ewww, right? Well, it works and it doesn’t harm the environment. Frankly it also helps bring us closer to nature so I highly recommend it. Don’t know where to start? Start with removing Japanese beetles early morning when it’s cool and they’re sluggish. Place a container with soapy water under a plant where they’re sitting and shake them in or hand-pick them and drop them in.

• You can also manually remove larger pests like caterpillars, beetles, and slugs from plants. Regular inspection and removal can prevent infestations from spreading.

  Garlic and Hot Pepper Spray

• Create a natural repellent by blending garlic and hot peppers with water and a few drops of dish soap. Strain and spray on plants. This mixture repels a variety of pests, including aphids, whiteflies, and beetles.

  Attract Birds and Other Wildlife

• Install birdhouses and birdbaths to attract birds and frogs as natural pest controls.

  My cat Ettagirl (in photo) is good at keeping cicadas under watch but that’s about it.

  For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

  Charlotte

Summer Fun

planting before it gets too hot is one of my current summer hobbies along with reading and keeping bees. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Summer Fun

What do you look forward to doing in summer? Summer officially in the US is June 20 or thereabouts but the unofficial beginning of summer starts Memorial Day weekend. Here are some of the top summer activities to get your planning started:

1. When we were growing up, the school break time meant time for reading. Mom would make up our reading lists and off we would go to curl up in a favorite spot. I still like to have a pile of books at the ready although other pursuits take up part of my summer time now.

2. Gardening. Especially when days are cool without humidity, those are perfect days to be outside working with soil.

3. Beekeeping. As a beekeeper, the bees take priority even over plants.

4. Farmer’s Markets. Although were I live produce doesn’t start coming in until later. our local farmer’s markets still have a lot to offer late spring: plant starts, homemade baked goods and local honey from last year.

5. Camping. We’re lucky to have a number of lovely state and federal camping sites for hiking and enjoying the outdoors with friends and family.

6. Water Sports. Not too far from my home, there are a number of lakes where friends kayak, paddleboard, jet ski and fish.

7. Camping: Spending time in nature, hiking, and enjoying campfires with friends and family.

8. Traveling: Exploring new cities, countries, or local destinations is a popular summer activity.

9. Festivals and Fairs: Attending music festivals, food festivals, and local fairs that often take place during the summer months.

10. Amusement Parks and Water Parks: Visiting theme parks for rides and water attractions.

    What are your summer plans?

    For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

    Charlotte

Golden Dewdrop Trees

I look forward to seeing these flowers late summer in USDA Hardiness zone 5. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Golden Dewdrop Trees

It’s that time of year for my potted Golden Dewdrop trees to bloom. Late summer early fall is a tough time for pollinators to find food. These lovely blooms are a welcome food source for native bumblebees.

However, it has crossed my mind these are getting rather large compared to their size when I first bought them. I will trim these back before moving them inside for winter.

golden dewdrop trees gettng bigger growing in pots. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I bought my first Golden Dewdrop potted bushes a good decade ago. They were small but they had these lovely bluish purple flowers that bloomed late summer. Since those are hard colors to find in most gardens, I kept those little shrubs growing inside through winter and then back outside in deck shade.

Several years ago they were finally big enough to trim into the tree shape I wanted. I have to confess it took me a couple of days to think through how I was going to do this. I didn’t want to take too much off or somehow cut the wrong branches.

After considering the shape, I trimmed these tropical plants into their tree shape and gave them a place of honor.

Golden Dewdrop trimmed trees blooming at my garage door. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

These USDA Hardiness zone 9-11 plants do not like our hot Missouri USDA zone 5 summers. I keep them in shade through summer, including in their new spot by my garage door but they may like a little more sun.

In addition to their tiny flowers, Golden Dewdrop trees also have golden yellow berries, which add a very interesting texture to the plants.

Golden Dewdrop shrubs also have pretty yellow berries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The Golden Dewdrop trees are excellent for garden decor. They offer a more bluish color to the garden, often a missing color.

Once inside, these purplish flowering plants make it quite well through winter. I trim them back before bringing them inside and make sure their roots get watered in dry winter house conditions.

After the danger of frost is over around May, outside they go to get ready for another blooming season. Be patient because in mid-Missouri these usually don’t put on a show until mid to late summer.

These are just so pretty, they are well worth the extra care to keep them going!

Charlotte

Do You Have Native Seeds?

missouri wildflowers nursery is looking for missouri native seeds. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Do You Have Native Seeds?

Missouri Wildflowers Nursery closer to Jefferson City than where I live in Rolla is one of my all-time favorite native plant sources. Not only do they have an excellent free catalog but their staff is very knowledgeable and helpful. And don’t forget to drive state highway 54 mid-spring to see the purple coneflowers they’ve planted over the last few decades.

That’s not why we’re here, though. This company is looking for Missouri native seeds; it’s how they get stock for their native plant seedlings.

I’m a big fan of Missouri wildflowers nursery; they have a great free catalog you can download. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Their list of seeds they want is interesting. They have a list of what they would like to get but haven’t sold as well as seeds they want to restock.

use this list to determine if you have missouri native seeds to share. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

In case you missed it, they are flexible on payment either in cash or plants. Contact them directly.

Charlotte

Storm Water Ponds 2.0

storm water runs downhill and collects in these ponds before hitting my house. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Storm Water Ponds 2.0

Earlier this spring, I decided to remake my two storm water detention ponds at the front of my house.

These holes were made in 1995 when I removed my slolem-of a garage entrance concrete. Realizing storm water will run downhill into my garage, I set up storm water ponds to reduce the water runoff and capture rain.

The first ponds were made with black plastic. Although they lasted for a number of years, I had to replace them when something punctured them.

the old storm water ponds had a liner that had to be replaced. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Here’s a better view of the same space cleared of some of the overgrowth and ready to install pond forms.

pre-formed plastic liners will last longer and still collect rain water. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Pond forms are easy to work with as long as you level them and add support underneath. It also helps if you don’t get rain filing up the forms before you’re done. The resident frog population is well-established and didn’t go far during the construction.

rocks line the pond form side so water levels can fluctuate without showing the pond form. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I didn’t buy anything new for this project besides the pond forms, sand, glue to hold in critical rocks and solar-powered metal lights. I had the rocks and pumps. Each of the three ponds have a pump to keep the water oxygenated.

Push the flat rocks farther over the pond form lip so they aren’t as visible. (charlotte Ekker wiggins photo)

In terms of cost estimate, the pond forms, sand, sealer and lights were around $1,000. If you have to buy rocks and pay labor that will depend on your local pricing.

I’ve made the previous storm water ponds and had my handyman and his crew develop this one. I’m glad I did because he knows me and added safe walking spaces in between the ponds I now use every day.

I’m still mulling over additional landscaping. I need some clear spaces to safely get around. Some plants were growing in those areas before this work was done so I’m waiting to see if they will return on their own.

In terms of mosquitos, the water is getting churned by pumps and resident goldfish. I also have a resident population of dragonflies that take out mosquitos and water plants that help keep the collected rain water clear.

Didn’t take my bees long to find the water source. They like to hang out on several moss-covered stones. I also added water lettuce so they have safe places to land as they gather water.

I could use the larger pond for water therapy but may have to explain that to resident frogs. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

This is the first spot I visit in the morning to feed the resident goldfish and count frogs as they dive in. It’s a small water feature that was designed to be practical but has added a lot of joy to my garden. If you have a chance to add one, I highly recommend it!

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Charlotte

Monkey Grass

Monkey grass is an excellent border plant providing pollinators food mid-summer. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Monkey Grass

Liriope, also known as Lilyturf or Monkey Grass, is a popular ornamental plant often used in gardens for its attractive foliage and low maintenance requirements. I love Liriope to mark my paths and borders, and to help with soil erosion, a constant battle gardening on a hillside.

Here are some advantages and disadvantages of using Liriope in your garden:

Advantages:

1. Low Maintenance: Liriope is relatively low-maintenance. It requires minimal care once established, making it a great choice for busy gardeners or those new to gardening.

2. Ornamental Value: Liriope's grass-like leaves come in various shades of green and sometimes variegated patterns, adding visual interest to your garden. Some varieties also produce small spikes of lavender or white flowers, adding a touch of color.

3. Versatility: Liriope is versatile in terms of its uses. It can be used as ground cover, edging, or in mass plantings. It's also suitable for both sunny and partially shaded areas.

4. Erosion Control: Due to its spreading nature and dense root system, Liriope can help control soil erosion on slopes and banks.

5. Drought Tolerance: Once established, Liriope is generally drought-tolerant and can survive periods of dry weather without much trouble.

6. Deer Resistance: Many varieties of Liriope are relatively resistant to deer browsing, making it a good choice in areas with deer populations.

7. Pollinator Food: Liriope blooms mid-summer where I live and provides food for bees and other pollinators when not much else does.

Disadvantages:

1. Invasiveness: Liriope can sometimes become invasive in prime growing conditions. It spreads through underground rhizomes, and in some cases, it can outcompete other plants and become difficult to control.

2. Slow Establishment: Liriope can take a while to establish and fill in, especially when planted from small divisions.

3. Limited Flowering Period: While some Liriope varieties produce small spikes of flowers, the flowering period is relatively short, and the flowers may not be as showy as those of other plants.

4. Overcrowding: If not properly managed, Liriope can sometimes become overcrowded, leading to a less attractive appearance and reduced growth.

5. Spread into Unwanted Areas: The rhizomes of Liriope can spread beyond where you initially planted them. This can sometimes lead to the plant appearing in areas where you didn't intend it to grow.

6. Winter Appearance: In colder climates, Liriope's foliage can become brown and wilted during the winter months.

   Some recommend cutting Liriope back in spring but I don’t find that necessary. It can look a little bedraggled coming out of winter but the new growth soon turns green and lush again.

Charlotte