July Gardening Chores

James A. Mess daily inspects his favorite pot of herbs. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

July Gardening Chores

Record heat. We’re having temps in the 100Fs, making me wonder what will happen in our typically hot months of July and August. Among other July chores, besides enjoying picking berries and daily checking favorite herbs, I will continue to rethink garden plants that can handle heat. Other chores for USDA Hardiness zone 6b:

1.     Deadhead flowering plants. Removing spent blooms will help keep plants healthy and may even give you a second and third wave of flowers. I use sewing and quilting thread snips to quickly remove spent blooms.

2.     Remove unwanted plants. Unwanted plants you may call weeds take up nutrients, moisture and space away from desired plants. In this context, competition is not a good thing.

3.     Know your weeds. If you weren’t sure what it was before, whatever was growing should be showing its true identity by now. Many plants casually labeled weeds are forgotten herbs; others, like goldenrod, are blamed for what a true weed, ragweed does, which is aggravate allergies. And ragweed is a good plant, it only grows in very poor soil and adds nutrients to improve it before it dies off. Did I say know your weeds already??

4.     Give your garden one inch of water a week. When you water, use a watering wand or place the hose into the ground. In hot summer weather, using sprinklers is a waste, the water just evaporates before it even hits the ground.

5.     Touch up mulch. Mulch will help keep garden beds cool. Make sure it’s aged mulch. If the mulch is steaming, it’s too young to use on flower beds.

6.     Keep your early morning dates with Japanese beetles. Catch them in soap-filled buckets to help reduce the population. Don’t try to catch them later in the day, they will just fly off.

7.     No more compost for woody plants, time for them to start hardening off and getting ready for winter.

8.     Don’t forget to water trees deeply, especially newly-planted trees and the oldest ones.

9.     Rambler roses done blooming? Prune.

10. How are your vines? My blackberries and clematis need a little help so I gauge their possible growth for the rest of this season and add support. Oh, I’m often wrong, the idea is just to give them extra support or it’s a mess trying to untangle them later. I usually wait until next year then and start with fresh growth.

11. I am starting to make new flower beds so I am hauling cardboard boxes home to get a good start. Once I line the beds with cardboard, I add mulch to start making the foundation of the bed. After the next rain, soil will be added, then another layer of mulch.

12. Start thinking about what needs to be done early next spring. I keep a list, check it twice…

13. The nearby composter will also get cleaned out. Not entirely, leave a good bucket-full as compost starter for the next batch.

14. Mowing grass? Don’t bag or rake clippings, they return Nitrogen to the soil.

15. Plant buckwheat in open areas. It’s not only a fast-growing, Nitrogen-introducing cover crop for garden spots, it also gives bees a source of food during August, when little else is in bloom.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Heat Advisory Tips for Plants

patio umbrellas protect container gardens during record heat. (charlotte ekker wigGIns photo)

Heat Advisory Tips for Plants

We are seeing record-high heat advisories again this summer in USDA Hardiness zone 6b, a time that challenges not only people but animals in our gardens as well. Plants stop reproducing and enter survival mode when temperatures are over 86F. The following are some tips to help us all manage the record hot and humid temperatures:

1. Water Deeply & Early

• Water early in the morning (before 9 AM) to reduce evaporation.

• Soak the root zone deeply 1-2 times a week. Underground watering wands help get the water to roots.

• Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation for efficiency.

• Water hanging plants mornings and evening; move them into shade or cool garage temporarily.

• Add water to bird baths daily so birds and other garden residents have access to water.

2. Mulch Generously

• Water deeply before mulching. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature and retain moisture.

• Use straw, shredded leaves, wood chips at least 3” deep.

• Keep mulch away from tree trunks.

• Apply as a tire surrounding the plants leaving a lower trough towards the center where water can accumulate.

3. Stop Fertilizing

• Fertilizer encourages tender growth that wilts easily.

• Pause fertilizing until temperatures are cooler.

4. Provide Shade

• Use old sheets, row covers, or shade cloth.

• Move plants into afternoon shady areas.

• Patio umbrellas help protect plants in containers.

• Prioritize afternoon sun protection (2-6 PM).

5. Prioritize the Most Vulnerable

• Focus on seedlings, containers, leafy greens, and transplants.

6. Protect Roots in Containers

• Bury plastic bottles with holes so watering can get water to roots.

• Move pots to shade if possible.

• Group containers and wrap them in light-colored fabric.

7. Avoid Disturbing the Soil

• Avoid weeding or transplanting during extreme heat.  

8. Mist in the Evening

• Light evening misting can cool foliage.

• Avoid misting in full sun to prevent damage.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Lantana Mosquito Deterrent

LANTANA GROWS IN VARIOUS COLOR COMBINATIONS, I’M PARTIAL TO THE YELLOW. (CHARLOTTE EKKER WIGGINS PHOTO)

Lantana Mosquito Deterrent

I remember having Lantana (Lantana camara) surrounding our Lima, Peru patio growing up. It was used as a bug - particularly mosquitos - deterrent. There is some science behind the claim—though today we know it's more effective in certain forms than just growing it in the garden.

Why Lantana Works Against Mosquitoes

1. Natural essential oils:
Lantana leaves and flowers contain volatile compounds (such as caryophyllene, germacrene D, and eucalyptol) that mosquitoes find irritating or repellent. These compounds are especially concentrated in lantana leaf extracts or essential oils.

2. Research support:
A few studies (especially in tropical regions like India and Africa) have shown that lantana leaf extract in coconut oil can provide up to 94.5% protection from Anopheles mosquitoes (malaria carriers) for a few hours. This is significant in rural areas with limited access to commercial repellents.

How to Use Lantana as a Mosquito Repellent

Planting in the garden. Low to moderate. May deter mosquitoes in immediate proximity; best when planted in sunny areas near seating spots. Scent is strongest when leaves are crushed.

Crushing leaves. Moderate. Rub fresh leaves on skin (test for irritation first). Not as effective as DEET but can offer short-term protection.

Making or buying oil-based repellents. High. Use infused oil or diluted essential oil (never undiluted) as a topical repellent or spray. Must be reapplied regularly.

In potted containers near doors/patios. Moderate. May help create a small buffer zone around entrances or outdoor seating.

Important Considerations

• Toxicity to pets: Lantana is toxic to dogs, cats, and livestock if ingested. Keep out of reach if you have curious animals.

• Invasiveness: In warmer climates (like the southern U.S.), Lantana camara can become invasive. Use sterile or native cultivars where possible.

• Not a substitute for strong repellents: For areas with heavy mosquito pressure or mosquito-borne diseases, lantana should be considered a supplement, not a replacement, for other control methods.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Ten Tips to Grow Roses

isn’t this lovely? It’s the first thornless rose from a climbing rose I planted thsi year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Ten Tips to Grow Roses

Let’s face it, growing roses in usda zone 6b can be challenging. I decided to try again last year when I bought bare root roses and kept them in pots for a year. They wintered over in their pots buried into their destined growing spots, then were taken out of their pots and planted this spring. Compost and worm castings are feeding their soil; a wet spring has made their transition easier.

Here are ten tips if you also want to try to grow roses:

1. Winter Hardiness
Opt for roses bred for winter hardiness and disease resistance. Excellent choices include:

• Shrub roses like Knock Out® and Oso Easy® (Knock Out has two varieties that have scent)

• Rugosa roses (very hardy and fragrant)

• Older heirloom roses (many are resilient once established)

• Miniature roses, which are a shrub rose, have worked well for me in the past.

2. Full Sun
Roses need 6–8 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sun is especially important to dry dew and prevent fungal diseases.

3. Well-Drained Soil
Amend heavy clay with compost and aged manure. Raised beds or mounded soil help avoid root rot, especially in wet springs.

4. Water Deeply but Infrequently
Water at the base, not overhead. In Zone 6b, aim for about 1–2 inches per week.

5. Mulch 
Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch (shredded bark, leaf mold, compost) to:

• Retain soil moisture

• Suppress weeds

• Prevent soil splash (reduces fungal spores)

6. Prune in Early Spring (March–April)
When forsythia bloom, it’s time to:

• Prune out dead/damaged canes

• Shape the plant

• Open the center for airflow (reduces disease)

7. Feed Regularly but Stop in Late Summer
Use a balanced rose fertilizer (e.g. 10-10-10 or an organic rose mix) starting in early spring. Stop feeding after mid-August so plants harden off before frost.
If in a drought, don't fertilize or your stressing your roses.

8. Winter Protection. In late fall:

• Stop deadheading and pruning

• Mound soil or mulch 8–12 inches high around the base

• For tender types, wrap with burlap or use rose cones (with ventilation)

9. Scout for Pests and Diseases Weekly.
Zone 6b’s humidity encourages issues. Watch for:

• Japanese beetles (June–July): skeletonize leaves

• Aphids: cluster on buds and new growth

• Spider mites (hot, dry spells): stippled yellowing leaves

• Black spot: dark leaf spots, yellowing and drop

• Powdery mildew: white coating on leaves
  Use Neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking early. Favor resistant varieties to minimize issues.

10. Practice Good Garden Hygiene
Remove all fallen leaves in fall to reduce disease spores. Clean pruners between plants to avoid spreading viruses or fungi.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Keep Cats Indoors

My last two rescues supervise a visiting chipmunk. they have access to the deck once I clear it. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Reasons to Keep Cats Indoors

There are some extraordinary estimates about how many birds die yearly. The leading cause of death? Feral and outdoor cats. Keeping cats indoors has numerous benefits for both the cats and the environment. Here are 10 compelling reasons why cats should be kept as indoor pets:

1. Prevention of Wildlife Hunting: Cats are natural hunters. Outdoor cats can have a significant impact on local wildlife populations, particularly birds. Keeping cats indoors helps protect native wildlife.

2. Protection from Predators: Cats that roam outside may encounter predators such as coyotes, hawks, or even aggressive dogs. Indoors, they are safe from these threats unless they have a mischievous sibling and that's a whole different kind of playful predator.

3. Reduced Risk of Disease: Indoor cats are less likely to contract diseases and infections that are commonly spread through contact with other cats or wildlife.

4. Prevention of Parasites: Fleas, ticks, and other parasites are more likely to infest cats that spend time outside. Keeping cats indoors reduces the risk of these infestations and associated health problems.

5. Protection from Poisoning: Cats that go outside may accidentally ingest poisonous substances, such as antifreeze, pesticides and toxic plants. 

6. Avoidance of Fights with Other Animals: Outdoor cats are more likely to get into fights with other cats or animals, leading to injuries, abscesses, or infections.

7. Longer Lifespan: Indoor cats generally live longer than their outdoor counterparts. The protection from various hazards and health risks contributes to a longer, healthier life. All of my cats have lived indoors and had an average life span of 21 years.

8. Safety from Traffic: Indoor cats are protected from the dangers of roads and vehicles. Outdoor cats often face the risk of being hit by cars, leading to serious injury or death.

9. Less Exposure to Harsh Weather: Extreme weather conditions, such as heatwaves, freezing temperatures, and storms, can be dangerous for outdoor cats. Indoor cats are safe and comfortable regardless of the weather outside. On the other hand, you may lose access to the center of your bed.

10. Stronger Bond with Owners: Indoor cats often develop closer relationships with people. This can lead to a more fulfilling and affectionate relationship assuming negotiations go well about who sleeps where. See Number 9.

    For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

    Charlotte

Rain Barrels

These steps off my basement now have a space for a rain barrel. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Rain Barrels: Rain at Your Finger Tips!

Living on the down side of a hill means coming up with creative ways to keep water from pooling around my basement. Having totes and nearby ponds collecting water from my house gutters was one of the solutions. Now that my house siding has been replaced, after 5 years and two contractors, a story for another time - my handyman is finishing house details such as installing missing lights, railings and steps out of doorways. He also re-installed parts of the house guttering system and added rain barrels close to areas where I can easily access and use them. Indoor plants as well as an herb garden that grows outside my basement door will now have rain water accessible during the growing season instead of my having to drag a hose from the other side of the house. 
If you haven't considered adding rain barrels to your property, here are some reasons to do so:

• Plant Health Rainwater is typically free of the chemicals and salts found in treated tap water, making it better for plants and gardens. I can tell the difference between watering my plant with rain water and city water. Plants are healthier getting rain water.

• Water Conservation Rain barrels help reduce the demand on municipal water supplies, particularly during dry seasons, by providing an alternative water source for gardening, lawn care, and other non-potable uses.

• Cost Savings By using rainwater for irrigation, you can lower your water bill, especially in areas where water is expensive or usage is metered.

• Emergency Water Supply In case of water shortages or restrictions, stored rainwater can serve as an emergency backup.

• Environmentally Friendly Harvesting rainwater reduces stormwater runoff, which can carry pollutants into local waterways. This helps reduce the environmental impact on local rivers and streams.

If this is a new idea, do a little advance planning. Think through first where you want to place them and what size you will need, then go shopping.

• Initial Cost. Setting up a rain barrel system will require an initial investment. There are complete systems available through garden centers. You can also find rain barrels on sale at garage sales, thrift stores and local home and garden centers at the end of the growing season.

• Maintenance. They will also require regular maintenance to prevent debris buildup. I rarely have a problem with algae growth and mosquitos because I use the water quickly and I welcome frogs for natural pest control.

• Limited Water. Most rain barrels hold 50-100 gallons so place them where you need small water amounts.

• Water Overflow. During heavy rain, rain barrels can overflow, leading to potential flooding. Have them hooked into and out of the house guttering system to reduce water puddling. And you cadd an overflow hose that guides the water overflow away from the house and into a nearby flower bed and rain garden.

• Do They Fit. Rain barrels can take up space and may not be visually appealing. Measure the available space and chose rain barrels that will fit the space and blend in. The rain barrels at the front of my house are green and nicely blend into the landscape.

Having rain barrels will be well worth the effort. Your plants, and frogs, will be happier and healthier!

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Surprise Lilies

Surprise lilies at the front of my missouri home. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Surprise Lilies

Surprise lily season is almost a month early this year, which is another surprise in itself. Every morning I walk to try to spot the various places these stalks are raising buds. Oh, I planted them in spring; by now I don't remember where.

Surprise lilies, also known as magic lilies, naked ladies, and resurrection lilies, are native to Southeast China, Japan, and Korea. They have been available in the United States since 1880 and I think of them as the north American cousin to tropical Amaryllis. The big difference is that surprise lilies are perennials; once planted, they stay outside re-blooming from year to year.

The surprise lily is named for its habit of blooming in mid-summer, after its leaves have died back. The flowers appear suddenly on naked stems, hence the name "surprise lily" and, where I live, "naked ladies." Helps to raise an eyebrow a la Groucho Marx when you say it.

Surprise lilies are hardy in USDA zones 5-9. They prefer full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. They are drought-tolerant once established and one of the few plants that bloom through our hot Midwest weather.

To plant surprise lilies, dig a hole that is twice the width and depth of the bulb. Place the bulb in the hole, pointed side up. I add bone meal whenever I'm planting bulbs, a handful per bulb, to give them a good start. Cover bulb with soil. Water the soil well. Forget where you planted them. I am an expert at this step.

Green leaves will grow in spring, collecting sunlight and storing it in the bulbs. Surprise lily greenery will grow for about a month.
Mid-summer, surprise lily flowers will bloom for 2-4 weeks. After the flowers have faded, the stems will die back. The bulbs will go dormant until the following spring.

Surprise lilies make great cut flowers. Their sweet scent can easily fill a room in a few minutes, making them nice flowering gifts.

Cut them early morning when the flowers are still in bud form. I usually add one in bloom so it's clear what the buds will become.

I also have native pink phlox growing in my garden. They are still in bloom when surprise lilies show up so they make a nice combination.

Both Surprise lilies and native pink phlox are pollinator favorites. Bumblebees mine the Surprise lily nectar while getting covered in pollen; butterflies, hummingbirds and hummingbird moths keep the native pink phlox company.

Why Plant Surprise Lilies

If you are looking for a beautiful and unexpected addition to your garden, consider planting surprise lilies for beauty and pollinator food:

• The flowers are white or pink and have a sweet fragrance.

• The plants can reach a height of 2-3 feet.

• The bulbs can live for many years.

• Surprise lilies are a good choice for pollinator gardens; bumblebees and moth orchids love them.

• They are deer-resistant.

• They can be planted among other perennials that fill in around them.

  For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

  Charlotte

Worm Castings

Worm Castings

You’ve probably seen them advertised recently by home and garden centers. Where I live, we used to buy small bags from a local worm farm that catered to recreation outlets selling fishing worms. Regardless of where you buy them, worm castings are a secret garden weapon. If you don’t know what they are, they are worm poo, nutrient-rich waste produced by earthworms. It’s a mix of beneficial bacteria, enzymes, and nutrients that significantly enhance soil health and plant growth.

I consider worm castings my plant medicine. If I have ailing plants, I give them a dose of worm castings. Within a week or so they seem to improve.

How to Use Worm Castings in the Garden

1. Soil Amendment:

   • Mix worm castings into the soil before planting. Use about 1/4 cup of castings per square foot of garden space. For larger areas, use 10-20% worm castings by volume in the top 6-8 inches of soil.

2. Top Dressing:

   • Sprinkle a thin layer of worm castings (about 1/2 inch) around the base of existing plants. This will provide a slow-release of nutrients as you water.

3. Worm Casting Tea:

   • Ingredients:

     • 1 cup of worm castings

     • 1 gallon of water

     • Optional: 1 tablespoon of molasses (to feed beneficial microbes)

   • How to:

     • Place worm castings in a porous bag (e.g., a cloth bag or pantyhose).

     • Submerge bag in water and let it steep for 24-48 hours, occasionally stirring or aerating the water.

     • Use the tea to water plants or as a foliar spray. This provides a quick nutrient boost and helps ward off pests and diseases.

4. Seed Starting Mix:

   • Mix worm castings into your seed starting mix at a ratio of about 1 part worm castings to 3 parts seed starting mix. This enhances germination rates and early growth.

5. Compost Pile Enhancer:

   • Add worm castings to your compost pile to boost microbial activity and accelerate the composting process.

Once you start using worm castings in your garden you’ll want to raise your own. I have two worm farms in my utility room that consume kitchen scraps and keep me supplied with my plant medicine of choice.

 For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Fighting Japanese Beetles

japanese beetles dining on my white hardy hibiscus blooms. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Fighting Japanese Beetles

Darn it, I forgot to ask my brother who lives in Virginia if Japanese beetles were ravaging his lovely crape myrtles this year. Years ago about this time, he was filing up 5 gallon buckets with these iridescent invasives. For his birthday, I shipped him 250,000 nematodes to treat his soil. Those microscopic worms eat the Japanese beetle grubs and reduce next year’s population.

The 3/8th of an inch hard shell beetles are eating machines, devouring more than 200 plant species. Once they turn from grubs into beetles, they set off a scent that says "let's party" to other Japanese beetles, yet another reason why you shouldn’t crush the bugs, no matter how tempting.

If you don't see them, you'll know you have them when your plant leaves turn into lace.

Prior to the beetle's accidental introduction into the United States, the Japanese beetle was found only on the islands of Japan, isolated by water and kept in check by its natural enemies. The beetles entered the country as grubs in soil on Japanese iris roots. By 1920, eradication programs were dropped; the beetle proved to be too prolific of a breeder.

One of the popular options to eliminate these voracious bugs is Japanese beetle traps, which I don’t recommend. Those are basically pheromone-laced paper bags that attract Japanese beetles. The challenge is the bags don’t catch all of them so having more Japanese beetles in your garden means more potential grubs to hatch out next year.

If you insist on using Japanese beetle traps, make sure you place them at the edge of your property and down wind.

Another friend who has chickens uses Japanese beetle traps to collect Japanese beetles, then transfers them to plastic bags and freezes them. The frozen bugs are then fed to her chickens as treats.

What has worked very well for me over the years is dropping them in a can of soapy water early morning, while they are still sluggish. I pop the soapy water-filled coffee can underneath plant branches, then shake them. The bugs fall into the water without my touching them. I’ll confess I have squished a few, especially when I’ve suspected they’re hiding inside my hardy hibiscus flowers. Sometimes they won’t drop out when I shake them so I have to remove the flower head.

For a long term solution, my brother in Virginia has treated his lawn with milky spores. He has dozens of crepe myrtles, one of Japanese beetles favorite munchies. According to him, Japanese beetle grubs eat the spores; get sick; die and, in the process, release more milky spores. It can take several years to eliminate the Japanese beetles, not counting whether your neighbors have treated their lawns.

There are plants Japanese beetles avoid. The typical kind of plant that will help to drive away Japanese beetles will be strong smelling and may taste badly to the insect. Some plants that deter Japanese beetles include many herbs as garlic, rue, tansy, catnip and chives. Other Japanese beetle deterrent plants include white chrysanthemums, leeks, onions, marigolds, white geraniums and larkspur.

There are also plants that Japanese beetles skip or only munch on towards the end of their season. I assume these are just not tasty plants: begonias, caladiums, common lilacs, common pear, tulip tree, flowering dogwood, forsythia, hydrangea, hickory, magnolia, persimmon and most oak trees.

Ok, time to soap up and start picking off those pesky bugs!

 For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Mole Holes and Voles

Mole Holes and Voles

Mole Holes and Voles Go Away

Yes, I also have a few tunnels even in my soil-challenged Missouri hillside. That’s because I have wood-chipped lined paths that have been decomposing and turning into soil. The soil then is home to some of the vole’s favorite food. But wait, I am getting ahead of myself.
It is helpful to first confirm that you have moles and/or voles in your garden. Hard to do since we usually don’t see them but they do leave tell-tale signs:

• Moles leave those holes with raised piles of soil like tiny volcanos.

• Voles make those long skinny tunnels of soil.

Are they bad? Years ago my hillside soil was so rocky I appreciated the few voles I had. They helped loosen the little soil I had so I used their runs to plant but they didn’t stay long. I didn't have enough food sources for them. They didn’t eat the plants but apparently they didn’t want their lair decorated with plant roots.

Some of my gardening friends have tried some traditional vole and mole deterrents:

1. Vole and Mole-repellent plants such as marigolds, alliums and castor beans. Mixed results on how well those worked.

2. Soil repellents, which usually include castor bean oil. Again mixed results.

3. Vibrating stakes and wind-powered pinwheels; moles and voles are sensitive to vibrations. Again mixed results. I have always suspected those pinwheels produced electricity for mole and vole washer dryers so never used them myself.

4. Burying hardware cloth around a garden perimeter can be hard to do but can work as long as the wire underground can reach about 3 feet underground. Impossible to even try on my limestone hillside.

5. Dogs and cats can work well to keep out unwanted garden visitors. I prefer to see cats inside so they don't also prey on birds but dogs can be a good mole and vole deterrent.

6. Another friend has tried dropping coffee grounds and hot pepper flake mixtures into their holes. She said they’ve either left or developed a taste for a hot morning brew, she’s not sure which one.

What has worked is treating soil with cayenne powder poured into their hole making living conditions unappetizing. Other smelly items in the same vein include garlic or onion, fish, rotten food especially cheese and yogurt. Make sure it’s down south of your deck and open windows or you may be tempted to leave, too.

The best strategy to encourage moles and voles to leave is to take away their food source, grubs. Treating your soil with nematodes will remove the grubs. Grubs will eclose into Japanese beetles so they may be worth the investment to keep your garden free at both ends. It can take a season but once the food source is gone, the moles and voles should leave as well.

What is your favorite mole and vole deterrent?

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Natural Pest Controls

Basil, left, ettagirl, middle, and marigolds, right, are three of some of my natural pest controls. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Natural Pest Controls

We all know using man-made chemicals in our gardens should be a last resort but sometimes we don’t know good alternatives. I haven’t used man made chemicals in my one acre garden for over 40 years so here are some of my effective alternatives:

Plant Buddies

• If you like it on your dish it most likely will get along in your garden. Basil around tomatoes, for example, will not only enhance tomato flavor but will protect tomato plants from bugs. Basil also repels mosquitos and flies.

• Check your local library for the most recent updated books on companion planting.

  Composting

• Keeping your soil healthy will eliminate the source of many of the issues gardeners develop during the growing season. Take the 40% of the food tossed out in this country and compost it; feed it back to the soil to keep it healthy and soil will keep bugs to a minimum.

  Dawn Detergent and Water in a Spray Bottle

• If you need help getting rid of insects, try Dawn detergent and water in a spray bottle. In most cases this will take care of most small bugs you don’t want on your plants: aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies.

• The soap breaks down the protective outer layer of insects, causing them to dehydrate.

  Neem Oil

• When you need something more try Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree and acts as an insect repellent and growth disruptor. It's effective against a wide range of pests, including aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites.

• It's biodegradable and non-toxic to humans and animals but not recommended for use around bees and other pollinators.

  Handpicking

• Ewww, right? Well, it works and it doesn’t harm the environment. Frankly it also helps bring us closer to nature so I highly recommend it. Don’t know where to start? Start with removing Japanese beetles early morning when it’s cool and they’re sluggish. Place a container with soapy water under a plant where they’re sitting and shake them in or hand-pick them and drop them in.

• You can also manually remove larger pests like caterpillars, beetles, and slugs from plants. Regular inspection and removal can prevent infestations from spreading.

  Garlic and Hot Pepper Spray

• Create a natural repellent by blending garlic and hot peppers with water and a few drops of dish soap. Strain and spray on plants. This mixture repels a variety of pests, including aphids, whiteflies, and beetles.

  Attract Birds and Other Wildlife

• Install birdhouses and birdbaths to attract birds and frogs as natural pest controls.

  My cat Ettagirl (in photo) is good at keeping cicadas under watch but that’s about it.

  For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

  Charlotte

Summer Fun

planting before it gets too hot is one of my current summer hobbies along with reading and keeping bees. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Summer Fun

What do you look forward to doing in summer? Summer officially in the US is June 20 or thereabouts but the unofficial beginning of summer starts Memorial Day weekend. Here are some of the top summer activities to get your planning started:

1. When we were growing up, the school break time meant time for reading. Mom would make up our reading lists and off we would go to curl up in a favorite spot. I still like to have a pile of books at the ready although other pursuits take up part of my summer time now.

2. Gardening. Especially when days are cool without humidity, those are perfect days to be outside working with soil.

3. Beekeeping. As a beekeeper, the bees take priority even over plants.

4. Farmer’s Markets. Although were I live produce doesn’t start coming in until later. our local farmer’s markets still have a lot to offer late spring: plant starts, homemade baked goods and local honey from last year.

5. Camping. We’re lucky to have a number of lovely state and federal camping sites for hiking and enjoying the outdoors with friends and family.

6. Water Sports. Not too far from my home, there are a number of lakes where friends kayak, paddleboard, jet ski and fish.

7. Camping: Spending time in nature, hiking, and enjoying campfires with friends and family.

8. Traveling: Exploring new cities, countries, or local destinations is a popular summer activity.

9. Festivals and Fairs: Attending music festivals, food festivals, and local fairs that often take place during the summer months.

10. Amusement Parks and Water Parks: Visiting theme parks for rides and water attractions.

    What are your summer plans?

    For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

    Charlotte

Golden Dewdrop Trees

I look forward to seeing these flowers late summer in USDA Hardiness zone 5. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Golden Dewdrop Trees

It’s that time of year for my potted Golden Dewdrop trees to bloom. Late summer early fall is a tough time for pollinators to find food. These lovely blooms are a welcome food source for native bumblebees.

However, it has crossed my mind these are getting rather large compared to their size when I first bought them. I will trim these back before moving them inside for winter.

golden dewdrop trees gettng bigger growing in pots. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I bought my first Golden Dewdrop potted bushes a good decade ago. They were small but they had these lovely bluish purple flowers that bloomed late summer. Since those are hard colors to find in most gardens, I kept those little shrubs growing inside through winter and then back outside in deck shade.

Several years ago they were finally big enough to trim into the tree shape I wanted. I have to confess it took me a couple of days to think through how I was going to do this. I didn’t want to take too much off or somehow cut the wrong branches.

After considering the shape, I trimmed these tropical plants into their tree shape and gave them a place of honor.

Golden Dewdrop trimmed trees blooming at my garage door. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

These USDA Hardiness zone 9-11 plants do not like our hot Missouri USDA zone 5 summers. I keep them in shade through summer, including in their new spot by my garage door but they may like a little more sun.

In addition to their tiny flowers, Golden Dewdrop trees also have golden yellow berries, which add a very interesting texture to the plants.

Golden Dewdrop shrubs also have pretty yellow berries. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The Golden Dewdrop trees are excellent for garden decor. They offer a more bluish color to the garden, often a missing color.

Once inside, these purplish flowering plants make it quite well through winter. I trim them back before bringing them inside and make sure their roots get watered in dry winter house conditions.

After the danger of frost is over around May, outside they go to get ready for another blooming season. Be patient because in mid-Missouri these usually don’t put on a show until mid to late summer.

These are just so pretty, they are well worth the extra care to keep them going!

Charlotte

Do You Have Native Seeds?

missouri wildflowers nursery is looking for missouri native seeds. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Do You Have Native Seeds?

Missouri Wildflowers Nursery closer to Jefferson City than where I live in Rolla is one of my all-time favorite native plant sources. Not only do they have an excellent free catalog but their staff is very knowledgeable and helpful. And don’t forget to drive state highway 54 mid-spring to see the purple coneflowers they’ve planted over the last few decades.

That’s not why we’re here, though. This company is looking for Missouri native seeds; it’s how they get stock for their native plant seedlings.

I’m a big fan of Missouri wildflowers nursery; they have a great free catalog you can download. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Their list of seeds they want is interesting. They have a list of what they would like to get but haven’t sold as well as seeds they want to restock.

use this list to determine if you have missouri native seeds to share. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

In case you missed it, they are flexible on payment either in cash or plants. Contact them directly.

Charlotte

Storm Water Ponds 2.0

storm water runs downhill and collects in these ponds before hitting my house. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Storm Water Ponds 2.0

Earlier this spring, I decided to remake my two storm water detention ponds at the front of my house.

These holes were made in 1995 when I removed my slolem-of a garage entrance concrete. Realizing storm water will run downhill into my garage, I set up storm water ponds to reduce the water runoff and capture rain.

The first ponds were made with black plastic. Although they lasted for a number of years, I had to replace them when something punctured them.

the old storm water ponds had a liner that had to be replaced. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Here’s a better view of the same space cleared of some of the overgrowth and ready to install pond forms.

pre-formed plastic liners will last longer and still collect rain water. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Pond forms are easy to work with as long as you level them and add support underneath. It also helps if you don’t get rain filing up the forms before you’re done. The resident frog population is well-established and didn’t go far during the construction.

rocks line the pond form side so water levels can fluctuate without showing the pond form. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I didn’t buy anything new for this project besides the pond forms, sand, glue to hold in critical rocks and solar-powered metal lights. I had the rocks and pumps. Each of the three ponds have a pump to keep the water oxygenated.

Push the flat rocks farther over the pond form lip so they aren’t as visible. (charlotte Ekker wiggins photo)

In terms of cost estimate, the pond forms, sand, sealer and lights were around $1,000. If you have to buy rocks and pay labor that will depend on your local pricing.

I’ve made the previous storm water ponds and had my handyman and his crew develop this one. I’m glad I did because he knows me and added safe walking spaces in between the ponds I now use every day.

I’m still mulling over additional landscaping. I need some clear spaces to safely get around. Some plants were growing in those areas before this work was done so I’m waiting to see if they will return on their own.

In terms of mosquitos, the water is getting churned by pumps and resident goldfish. I also have a resident population of dragonflies that take out mosquitos and water plants that help keep the collected rain water clear.

Didn’t take my bees long to find the water source. They like to hang out on several moss-covered stones. I also added water lettuce so they have safe places to land as they gather water.

I could use the larger pond for water therapy but may have to explain that to resident frogs. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

This is the first spot I visit in the morning to feed the resident goldfish and count frogs as they dive in. It’s a small water feature that was designed to be practical but has added a lot of joy to my garden. If you have a chance to add one, I highly recommend it!

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Charlotte

Monkey Grass

Monkey grass is an excellent border plant providing pollinators food mid-summer. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Monkey Grass

Liriope, also known as Lilyturf or Monkey Grass, is a popular ornamental plant often used in gardens for its attractive foliage and low maintenance requirements. I love Liriope to mark my paths and borders, and to help with soil erosion, a constant battle gardening on a hillside.

Here are some advantages and disadvantages of using Liriope in your garden:

Advantages:

1. Low Maintenance: Liriope is relatively low-maintenance. It requires minimal care once established, making it a great choice for busy gardeners or those new to gardening.

2. Ornamental Value: Liriope's grass-like leaves come in various shades of green and sometimes variegated patterns, adding visual interest to your garden. Some varieties also produce small spikes of lavender or white flowers, adding a touch of color.

3. Versatility: Liriope is versatile in terms of its uses. It can be used as ground cover, edging, or in mass plantings. It's also suitable for both sunny and partially shaded areas.

4. Erosion Control: Due to its spreading nature and dense root system, Liriope can help control soil erosion on slopes and banks.

5. Drought Tolerance: Once established, Liriope is generally drought-tolerant and can survive periods of dry weather without much trouble.

6. Deer Resistance: Many varieties of Liriope are relatively resistant to deer browsing, making it a good choice in areas with deer populations.

7. Pollinator Food: Liriope blooms mid-summer where I live and provides food for bees and other pollinators when not much else does.

Disadvantages:

1. Invasiveness: Liriope can sometimes become invasive in prime growing conditions. It spreads through underground rhizomes, and in some cases, it can outcompete other plants and become difficult to control.

2. Slow Establishment: Liriope can take a while to establish and fill in, especially when planted from small divisions.

3. Limited Flowering Period: While some Liriope varieties produce small spikes of flowers, the flowering period is relatively short, and the flowers may not be as showy as those of other plants.

4. Overcrowding: If not properly managed, Liriope can sometimes become overcrowded, leading to a less attractive appearance and reduced growth.

5. Spread into Unwanted Areas: The rhizomes of Liriope can spread beyond where you initially planted them. This can sometimes lead to the plant appearing in areas where you didn't intend it to grow.

6. Winter Appearance: In colder climates, Liriope's foliage can become brown and wilted during the winter months.

   Some recommend cutting Liriope back in spring but I don’t find that necessary. It can look a little bedraggled coming out of winter but the new growth soon turns green and lush again.

Charlotte

Rose of Sharon

my rose of sharon are trimmed into tree shapes and frame house and path corners. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon is a type of hibiscus (hibiscus syriacus) It is a member of the mallow family, Malvaceae. Other popular hibiscus varieties include Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos), and swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus laevis).

Rose of Sharon is a deciduous shrub that can grow up to 8 feet tall. It has large, showy flowers that come in a variety of colors, including white, pink, red, blue, and purple. The blue and purple ones can be hard to distinguish. Some pink ones also start pink and fade to purple.

The flowers bloom from summer to fall. Rose of Sharon is a relatively easy plant to care for and is hardy in USDA zones 5-9.

rose of sharon flowers are 6-8 inches wide and bumblebee favorites. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

How to Plant Rose of Sharon

Here are some tips for growing rose of Sharon:

• Plant in full sun or partial shade in well-drained soil.

• Water regularly, especially during hot, dry weather.

• Fertilize every few months with a balanced fertilizer.

• Prune in late winter or early spring to shape the plant and remove dead or damaged branches.

Rose of Sharon is a beautiful and versatile plant that can be used in a variety of landscape settings. It can be planted as a stand-alone shrub, in a shrub border, or as a hedge.

Rose of Sharon is also a popular choice for cut flowers and is a pollinator favorite.

Charlotte

Planting Onions

my first batch of homegrown onions, ready for the crisper. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Planting Onions

I start the growing season in my USDA Hardiness Zone 6A by planting onions. It helps that I use a lot of onions in my home cooking from soups to salads.

Onions are also excellent companions to roses, keeping bugs off those edible flowers.

I look for bags of onion sets late January and early February. You can find them in home and garden centers and even grocery stores. Some farm centers offer onion sets by weight.

I focus on growing my favorites, red onions, and then yellow onions. Two pots of each so that I can enjoy the onion greens fresh; then dig up bulbs later in the season.

How to Plant Onion Sets

Onion sets are easy to plant. I wait for a good rain, then make holes in a circle around the pot. I don’t plant onions in the same pot two years in a row so I rotate my pot garden as well.

onion sets are easy to plant. make a hole and place one set up to the top. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Once I have the holes made, I plop in an onion set in each, then make sure they are covered with soil.

It takes a couple of weeks for the first onion greens to show up; and maybe three months for the greenery to die back, which is a sign its time to dig up the onion bulbs.

recycled clam shells work to store onions and onion sets. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

How to Store Onions

You can recycle the bags that held the original onion sets. If you’re like me, though, you will plant a few onion sets every couple of weeks so you’ll need those mesh bags for the onion sets.

I keep mine in recycled clear clam shells with the cardboard tag. When I run out of onion sets to plant, I then use the mesh bag for storing the onion bulbs in the crisper.

In the meantime, the recycled clam shells also work well for holding the finished onion bulbs in your refrigerator.

Onions are easy to grow and can add flavor to most dishes so give them a try!

Charlotte

Watering Options

This is the view of the space under my deck when it was under construction where I connected three water totes to the gutter system to collect rain water. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Water Options

We just headed into the severe drought category where I live. This is the third year of record hot temperatures, killing off even native Eastern Redbuds and Flowering Dogwood native trees growing on my hillside for decades.

small waterfall recycles rain water and keeps it hydrated for pollinator and bird access. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Besides storm water ponds, I use plastic bottles in pots to water roots and include small waterfalls to keep rain water hydrated.

Of all of the watering options, the water totes collecting rain water through the house gutter system is the most practical and efficient.

House Gutter Watering Totes

Several decades ago, I connected my house gutters to pipes that collect rain water into my back pond. These gutters run the rain water first into smaller totes, then the overflow collects in my ponds.

The water totes sit under my deck, all three connected so they evenly collect rain water and evenly empty the totes as the collected water is used. My handyman laughed when I said how could I possibly use this much saved rain water and he was right, the water comes in handy during Missouri’s now extended summer dearth.

The totes themselves are connected so water collection is spread across all three totes. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The genius of this system is that I have a pump connected to the water totes that allows me to easily move water from the totes to the upstairs deck garden.

When I need water for my garden deck one story up, I activate the pump with a remote control. The pump is a bit noisy once it’s on but it then pumps the water from the totes one story up without my having to carry water.

Here’s the pump model information.

The pump has a remote control so that I can access stored rain water when I need it on the floor above where the water storage totes are located. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Here’s the pump remote. I press the “on” button then can control the water through the hose nozzle which has a lever for on and off as well. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

You do have to disconnect the pump before winter moves in but, short of that, there is no maintenance required.

The water totes hold 275 gallons each and are sold where I live repurposed from other uses. When buying them, make sure they are food grade. You don’t want to kill your plans with any residual chemicals.

Each tote ran around $70 each about 8 years ago.

I fill sunk plastic bottles in pots with rain water from the house guttering system to keep soil hydrated. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Collecting rain water gives me the option to use it when I need it and the pump makes it easy to get the water to where I need it.

Charlotte

Storm Water Garden Ponds

the updated garden ponds are nicely settling in with water plants and a few goldfish. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Storm Water Garden Ponds

There are many reasons one may want to add small garden ponds. In my case these started as storm water ponds to derail water coming down a hill hitting my house.

The first ponds looked like an old well dumping water into a nearby pond. Two iterations later, plastic pond liners formed two natural-looking watering holes that were quite popular with native wildlife.

this was the original storm water garden ponds with a liner we upgraded. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

When I had to replace the liner earlier this spring, my handyman suggested using pond forms instead of pond liners. They will last longer and be easier to maintain, he said. We also could reuse existing rocks as well as a supply a friend donated last year.

I didn’t have any expectations of the results. This needed to be wildlife friendly, including safe spots in case turtles and rabbits fell in.

instead of liners, we used pond forms to make the storm water ponds oonger lasting. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Bees were also using the ponds as a water source, and native frogs had been residents for a number of decades.

By the way, the frogs waited it out. Every end of the day of construction I would find several frogs checking out the new digs.

we reused rocks donated from a friend’s garden and what I already had. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

There are now three small ponds, all capable of catching storm water if it ever rains again. We’re in a drought again this year and rain water is precious.

To help keep water clear, I am adding back some aquatic plants from previous ponds. About a dozen goldfish are also part of the ecosystem now, keeping algae and mosquito larvae in check.

When I think of all of the garden nice to haves and must haves, a small pond falls in the must have category. The number of insects and animals that depend on the water source is a reminder that our gardens are homes to other creatures.

Charlotte